New Buyer with Qs for the 2015 Meg RS 250 Cup

[PeteyPete]

Hey Guys, 

I'm new to this forum and will hopefully have a Meg of my own soon, coming from a ford focus xr5.

I've got some concerns about long term reliability. At least two mechanics I know have told me to stay away from European cars including the Meg... So I was wondering if there are any long term issues or common issues that are gonna cost me???

Also, and this might just be my driving, but I test drove 3 Megane's last saturday, 2013 -250, 2013- 265 Trophy, 2015- 265 cup and every time i press down the clutch in first and sometime second there was a shudder through the car. Was i doing something wrong? is it the type of clutch? is there anything i can do differently? 

Thanks for the help guys.

[slick]

14 hours ago, PeteyPete said:

Hey Guys, 

I'm new to this forum and will hopefully have a Meg of my own soon, coming from a ford focus xr5.

I've got some concerns about long term reliability. At least two mechanics I know have told me to stay away from European cars including the Meg... So I was wondering if there are any long term issues or common issues that are gonna cost me???

Also, and this might just be my driving, but I test drove 3 Megane's last saturday, 2013 -250, 2013- 265 Trophy, 2015- 265 cup and every time i press down the clutch in first and sometime second there was a shudder through the car. Was i doing something wrong? is it the type of clutch? is there anything i can do differently? 

Thanks for the help guys.

I would be steering away from the mechanics and not the European cars!! I think most on this forum would agree that our cars are reliable. I have owned a renaultSport Clio 182 for 14 years and it very reliable, economical and cheap to run  - and great on the race track!!!

 

Edited 14, July 2019 by slick

[Ljubo1981]

I’ve had my 265 for almost 5 years, it’s got stage1 tune and no trouble whatsoever.

[dn2blue]

Do those mechanics actually know anything about Euro cars? 

There are tons of RS cars around here going strong year after year, quite a lot of which also see track time without any issues!

[JDB]

what dn2blue said

[jim60t]

I'd suggest you do a thorough Google search and look for posts about unreliability/people buying 'lemons' when it comes to the Mégane rs250/265/275. The truth is, you won't find any.

The same cant be said VW's, Audi's, BMW's, Merc's, Ford etc (even my old 2015 Subaru WRX STI people were having problems). For all the people that praise the reliability of these cars, you can also find stacks of horror stories. 

I can't recall any horror story/bad ownership experience on Mégane 3 ownership here in Australia or over there in Europe even. 

 

Obviously, everyone on this forum will be biased and say Renault's are the best (...they are!). But truth be told, you find me a post anywhere on the internet that complains about having a bad mechanical ownership experience with the Mégane 3 RS's, then post it up here. Like I said, I don't think you'll find one. 

[OldPacStig]

On 14/07/2019 at 6:51 PM, PeteyPete said:

Hey Guys, 

I'm new to this forum and will hopefully have a Meg of my own soon, coming from a ford focus xr5.

I've got some concerns about long term reliability. At least two mechanics I know have told me to stay away from European cars including the Meg... So I was wondering if there are any long term issues or common issues that are gonna cost me???

Also, and this might just be my driving, but I test drove 3 Megane's last saturday, 2013 -250, 2013- 265 Trophy, 2015- 265 cup and every time i press down the clutch in first and sometime second there was a shudder through the car. Was i doing something wrong? is it the type of clutch? is there anything i can do differently? 

Thanks for the help guys.

I bought an RS250 Cup a couple months ago. Clutch shudder is pretty normal when pressing down pedal. I can't speak conclusively for reliability as I haven't owned it long but it's got a tune and driven enthusiastically by both myself and the previous owner - haven't had any mechanical issues. Apparently the Megane 3 is the sweet spot for reliability as far as Meganes go. Get one, they're awesome, really capable cars

Edited 15, July 2019 by OldPacStig
Typo

[Docmattic]

I bought a 2013 265 cup + two years ago with similar concerns. I have not had a single issue. After I purchased, I was later talking with Julian from renotech who looks after these cars everyday. He told me the Meganes 250/265/275(when serviced regularly) are one of the most reliable performance cars there are. One of the only cars track ready out of the box. 

Also I have seen many in car sales with over 200000kms on the clock, which I found encouraging. 

Just look for one with a good service record, get a pre purchase inspection done to make sure everything is good and check if the timing belt has been replaced. I it hasn't and is due, you will need to budget for that in near future. 

They do have their known problems. I cant remember all of them and I've never had any yet. One I do remember is the inner door handles can break (usually when windy) because of their design and placement. But I find that it's easier to close the door by grabbing the door card near the window anyway. You can remove the door card an reinforce the handles anyway as a minor mod.

Mine only shudders sometimes when I push the clutch in. I think usually it's when in first gear and it sport mode. It will happen if I I push the accelerator quickly then reclutch for any reason. Car just doesn't like it. It's more of a lurch though.  I'll pay attention and see if I notice it any other time

Edited 15, July 2019 by Docmattic

[Safetyman]

Others can chip in if I've forgotten anything but the only "issues" regarding reliability are:

 

• Interior door handle breaking - can be avoided or worked around and can be repaired
• Door lock solenoids - replaced about every 5 or so years for some but generally you get warning that it's going
• Oil seep from head bolts -  easy fix
• Some broken gearbox bolts prior to 2013 (I think) but can be upgraded for under $100
• Audio not the flashest but can be improved
• Genuine battery has an approximate life of 5 years - easy fix

 

As you can see, they're not really "reliability" issues. More inconvenience issues. Very different to failed gearbox mechatronics units, cooked pistons etc. (VW group)

There are plenty of high mileage Renaults out there, turbo and NA, and more than a few have seen hard use on the track.

Some mechanics will generalise and it comes down to simple fear, ignorance and resistance to change. They only work with what they know and anything outside of that knowledge must be bad.

Parts prices for general service items (oil filters, air filters, brake pads) are equivalent to Japanese parts prices.

Major service items (timing belt, water pump every 4 years or 100k) will also be similar in cost when compared with Japanese. And before you're swayed that a timing chain is better than a an old fashioned timing belt, do a google search for timing chain stretch and see how many Japanese vehicles are afflicted with the problem.....

Like any brand car, If you look for car with a documented service history I think you'll find yourself with a reliable long termer.

Add to that a fairly level headed knowledge base on here should issues arise 😊

 

 

[Docmattic]

9 hours ago, Safetyman said:

Others can chip in if I've forgotten anything but the only "issues" regarding reliability are:

 

• Interior door handle breaking - can be avoided or worked around and can be repaired
• Door lock solenoids - replaced about every 5 or so years for some but generally you get warning that it's going
• Oil seep from head bolts -  easy fix
• Some broken gearbox bolts prior to 2013 (I think) but can be upgraded for under $100
• Audio not the flashest but can be improved
• Genuine battery has an approximate life of 5 years - easy fix

 

As you can see, they're not really "reliability" issues. More inconvenience issues. Very different to failed gearbox mechatronics units, cooked pistons etc. (VW group)

There are plenty of high mileage Renaults out there, turbo and NA, and more than a few have seen hard use on the track.

Some mechanics will generalise and it comes down to simple fear, ignorance and resistance to change. They only work with what they know and anything outside of that knowledge must be bad.

Parts prices for general service items (oil filters, air filters, brake pads) are equivalent to Japanese parts prices.

Major service items (timing belt, water pump every 4 years or 100k) will also be similar in cost when compared with Japanese. And before you're swayed that a timing chain is better than a an old fashioned timing belt, do a google search for timing chain stretch and see how many Japanese vehicles are afflicted with the problem.....

Like any brand car, If you look for car with a documented service history I think you'll find yourself with a reliable long termer.

Add to that a fairly level headed knowledge base on here should issues arise 😊

 

 

That's the list. I actually did have the head bolts leak. It was so easy to fix I forgot about it haha. 

[Moosey]

Agree that reliability on these cars is very good, particularly considering the performance on offer. A couple of other issues come to mind: clutch slave cylinders and thermostats failing. Again nothing major to worry about compared to other marques.

[JDB]

with reference to Safetymans comments - I have owned my car from new since Jan 2012

• Interior door handle breaking - not happened to my doors and they weigh 4 kg heavier than standard doors (Speaker and double skin Dynomat)
• Door lock solenoids - no problems
• Oil seep from head bolts -  no problems
• Some broken gearbox bolts prior to 2013 (I think) but can be upgraded for under $100 - no problems
• Audio not the flashest but can be improved - correct - I spent > $10,000 on mine
• Genuine battery has an approximate life of 5 years - my batteries have worn out at 3 years & 1 month (just after warranty) and the second one at 3 years & 3 months

I have had an air con compressor break at around the 110,000 km mark and a CV Boot leak at 115,000 km mark, both of these problems I fixed myself - compressor is a big job, CV boot easy fix.

My car has seen a few KM on track days a few times a year , motorkhans and one trip to the drag strip.

I am still on the original clutch at 124,000 km, had the belts done at 80,000 km ( 4.5 years ) and up until that point was serviced by the dealer with extra oil & filter changes by myself every 5,000 km.

[gabes1982]

Gotta agree with safetyman, the reliability of the Megane would leave cars like the Gti in the dust (I had one previously).
My 2013 265cup has about 80k on the odometer with very little issues apart from the following.

Door lock went last year & repaired under warranty.
Left brake senor failed 2 months ago & repaired under warranty.
Battery went last year (non-stop start), seems very reasonable for a consumable. 
Audio is terrible when listening to music, listening to podcast is acceptable.  
AC can struggle in the constant 40c+ summer heat 

 

Edited 17, July 2019 by gabes1982

[PeteyPete]

On 17/07/2019 at 11:55 AM, JDB said:

with reference to Safetymans comments - I have owned my car from new since Jan 2012

• Interior door handle breaking - not happened to my doors and they weigh 4 kg heavier than standard doors (Speaker and double skin Dynomat)
• Door lock solenoids - no problems
• Oil seep from head bolts -  no problems
• Some broken gearbox bolts prior to 2013 (I think) but can be upgraded for under $100 - no problems
• Audio not the flashest but can be improved - correct - I spent > $10,000 on mine
• Genuine battery has an approximate life of 5 years - my batteries have worn out at 3 years & 1 month (just after warranty) and the second one at 3 years & 3 months

I have had an air con compressor break at around the 110,000 km mark and a CV Boot leak at 115,000 km mark, both of these problems I fixed myself - compressor is a big job, CV boot easy fix.

My car has seen a few KM on track days a few times a year , motorkhans and one trip to the drag strip.

I am still on the original clutch at 124,000 km, had the belts done at 80,000 km ( 4.5 years ) and up until that point was serviced by the dealer with extra oil & filter changes by myself every 5,000 km.

Hey Guys, Thanks a lot for your replies! It's awesome to hear from real people who actually own the cars that the Megs aren't a nightmare. From everything said they seem quiet reasonable cheers. 
Can't to make a purchase will keep you updated. 

[PeteyPete]

Hey guys, 

Thanks again, for the input, its pretty re-assuring. I'm still looking for the right meg at this point but had some follow up questions.

Regarding the clutch, is this a universal experience, where there is always clutch shudder in first gear or is there something I can do differently. 

Also, I'm considering a 2012 or (2013) now, after the 2015 guy turned out a little dodgy, long story, but it has a broken lock on the drivers side.... Any advice on that. The seller is telling me that the part will cost $550 to replace with new genuine part but I'm also worried that it might indicate it's an electrical issue...

 

[Safetyman]

I'm pretty sure I paid $600 through renotech, fitted, but that was paid for by the dealer I purchased the car from.

Is the seller reducing the price of the car by that amount?

And no, it should just be the doorlocking solenoid that is mentioned in the list above, not a sign of further gremlins.

 

And nothing wrong with the 2012/13 Meganes. Some (trophy+} were arguably equipped with the best headlights fitted to them, the xenons, which were removed for the later facelift models.

I guess it's a personal preference thing but I prefer being able to see at night to having a better functioning media screen.

 

 

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[PeteyPete]

On 27/07/2019 at 8:23 AM, Safetyman said:

I'm pretty sure I paid $600 through renotech, fitted, but that was paid for by the dealer I purchased the car from.

Is the seller reducing the price of the car by that amount?

And no, it should just be the doorlocking solenoid that is mentioned in the list above, not a sign of further gremlins.

 

And nothing wrong with the 2012/13 Meganes. Some (trophy+} were arguably equipped with the best headlights fitted to them, the xenons, which were removed for the later facelift models.

I guess it's a personal preference thing but I prefer being able to see at night to having a better functioning media screen.

 

 

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Yeah i love the xenon lights too. 

I saw the car yesterday, he wasnt really ready budge on price and wanted to negotiate who would pay for the service and part when it comes to the repair. I've left that alone for now.

Today I saw 2013 Trophy, it was in pretty good nic but there was some oil leaking at one of the bolts of the plastic housing I think its called the crank case. This kind of concerned me  not really being to well read on cars.  Pictures to demonstrate. 

Any ideas on how serious this could be? I know it's hard to guess without being there. 
 

Thanks again.
 

[Davejay]

Pretty rare for those type of leaks, good chance it’s residual from an oil change.

[Safetyman]

If that's the plastic cover, on the under side of the car directly below the engine, then I'd say yes to the above but hard to say with actually removing it and having a look.

Oil changes are pretty messy affairs on these. I give it a degrease and wash down after the change, then leave the cover off for a few days to allow for residual degreaser and oil to slop around and fall out with daily driving.
Then a dry wipe down of whatever is left followed by a visual check a couple of days later when I finally put the cover back on.

Anal, I know, but it allowed me to trace a top cover leak from one of the bolts at the rear.

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[Docmattic]

On 27/07/2019 at 12:01 AM, PeteyPete said:

Hey guys, 

Thanks again, for the input, its pretty re-assuring. I'm still looking for the right meg at this point but had some follow up questions.

Regarding the clutch, is this a universal experience, where there is always clutch shudder in first gear or is there something I can do differently. 

Also, I'm considering a 2012 or (2013) now, after the 2015 guy turned out a little dodgy, long story, but it has a broken lock on the drivers side.... Any advice on that. The seller is telling me that the part will cost $550 to replace with new genuine part but I'm also worried that it might indicate it's an electrical issue...

 

It's worth waiting for the right one. Where are you located? If you are in the ACT you are welcome to check mine out re shudders etc. 

Mine rarely shudders. It's only if I'm in sport and I hit the throttle enthusiasticly and then have to clutch quickly. Im also sometimes a bit clunky shifting gears in normal mode after driving in sport mode due to different thottle map settings. Does this sound like what happens to you?

[PeteyPete]

1 hour ago, Davejay said:

Pretty rare for those type of leaks, good chance it’s residual from an oil change.

Hey Dave, 
I was really hoping it was something benign. The car was serviced on 20 may 19, would you still expect residual oil to stick around that long? 

To Docmattic, 
I'm in Sydney, might keep looking locally for a couple more weeks. (Just re-read your comment and realised you didnt mean to sell but to get a better understanding, haha. Whoops,  thanks a lot though!)

the shudder is an interesting phenomenon... I didnt experience it at all in the 2012 trophy i drove yesterday but today's 2013 trophy had a little shudder depending on how I pressed the clutch through the friction point (didnt seem to change in either mode). I don't get that at all inmy 07 xr5 Turbo no matter how I use the clutch. 

Oh and just a little more from my story about finding a Meg. Today's car also had busted passenger's side mirror. Blinker still worked but the light case for the blinker was gone and the housing of the mirror displaced. The battery was also replaced this morning, which was nice but concerning. Apparently, the car had not been driven since the owner, went over seas 4 weeks ago. I spoke to the misses. 

Thanks again for the input guys

Edited 28, July 2019 by PeteyPete

[PeteyPete]

1 hour ago, Safetyman said:

If that's the plastic cover, on the under side of the car directly below the engine, then I'd say yes to the above but hard to say with actually removing it and having a look.

Oil changes are pretty messy affairs on these. I give it a degrease and wash down after the change, then leave the cover off for a few days to allow for residual degreaser and oil to slop around and fall out with daily driving.
Then a dry wipe down of whatever is left followed by a visual check a couple of days later when I finally put the cover back on.

Anal, I know, but it allowed me to trace a top cover leak from one of the bolts at the rear.

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
 

Hey Safetyman, 

Yes it is the cover just under the engine and that's just it. It could be this benign issue of a slightly  sloppy oil change or something else.... I couldn't see any other causes or leaks else where. There wasn't any weeping from the bolts on top either. 
I might try to call the place where the car was serviced and see what info they can give me. Unlikely though that they will remember the car or the work. They may not even want to give out any info as I don't own the car... The owner comes back soon though so there's no need to rush things.

Thanks again

[Safetyman]

Regarding the shudder, I briefly had some after creating a hot spot on the clutch after a heavy track day where he copped a caning being used by 2 friends and myself. The majority of the runs were 2 up as well.

However, after worrying about it for a month or so and after a chat with renotech, I gave him another spanking at the next Wakefield day and it buffed itself out [emoji16]

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[PeteyPete]

Hey All quick update,

I'm currently looking at getting 2014. I'm a little concerned though cause it looks like 2014s had a face lift but the car I'm looking at, pictured below, looks like the 2013? It is possible that this car is still 2014 or am i being taken for a ride?

 

 

[Safetyman]

Yep, it's possible.
They're probably selling it to you on the date complianced, not built.
May have sat on the docks for a few months.
Chucks old red 265 was a 2014 non FL and even had a 5 year warranty.

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