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Safetyman last won the day on 10 July

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  1. That's a $100 flight these days. And you get refunded the registration that's remaining until December.
  2. One elderly owner [emoji23][emoji1787][emoji23][emoji1787] Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
  3. Check out this 2012 Renault Clio Sport 200 Cup Manual MY12. https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2012-Renault-Clio-Sport-200-Cup-Manual-MY12/SSE-AD-6020138 Take a punt and offer $9000 for this and mention you've seen the condition that it's currently in. It's parked two doors down from me and hasn't moved in months x is covered in leaves and dirt. The price has also been steadily dropping for the past 6 months. The paper in the window has 2 different prices to what is currently listed at. Even if you need to give it a detail and some love and it doesn't have gearbox crunch, you'll end up with a 200. Make the offer subject to the condition of the paint post car wash. If it is stained, $8000. Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
  4. Others can chip in if I've forgotten anything but the only "issues" regarding reliability are: Interior door handle breaking - can be avoided or worked around and can be repaired Door lock solenoids - replaced about every 5 or so years for some but generally you get warning that it's going Oil seep from head bolts - easy fix Some broken gearbox bolts prior to 2013 (I think) but can be upgraded for under $100 Audio not the flashest but can be improved Genuine battery has an approximate life of 5 years - easy fix As you can see, they're not really "reliability" issues. More inconvenience issues. Very different to failed gearbox mechatronics units, cooked pistons etc. (VW group) There are plenty of high mileage Renaults out there, turbo and NA, and more than a few have seen hard use on the track. Some mechanics will generalise and it comes down to simple fear, ignorance and resistance to change. They only work with what they know and anything outside of that knowledge must be bad. Parts prices for general service items (oil filters, air filters, brake pads) are equivalent to Japanese parts prices. Major service items (timing belt, water pump every 4 years or 100k) will also be similar in cost when compared with Japanese. And before you're swayed that a timing chain is better than a an old fashioned timing belt, do a google search for timing chain stretch and see how many Japanese vehicles are afflicted with the problem..... Like any brand car, If you look for car with a documented service history I think you'll find yourself with a reliable long termer. Add to that a fairly level headed knowledge base on here should issues arise 😊
  5. Welcome to the forum [emoji4] Nighteyes here too (but fanless) If you're doing rear pads, your piston pusher has to spin the piston too. I modified the lugs on a universal tool and combine it with a ratchet. Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
  6. We did ours recently using a bluefin and love it. Midrange power is sensational. You'll have to learn to apply it gently though, otherwise yes, you'll have the traction control cutting in constantly. Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
  7. Safetyman

    Clio 197 convert

    I picked one up for my daughter/son last year and totally agree. A hell of a lot of fun 😊
  8. It needs to be like for like. Similar year and body shape, so can't be from a facelift car if yours isn't nor from a 250. So base 2013 GT220 = 2013 cup rs Premium pack GT220 = trophy+ rs There's a thread in the ICE forum about it. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  9. +2 on the above. It has it's own personality. It's not a boy racer or track demon but like an RS, as speed builds it just seems to liven up and beg for more.
  10. I'm guessing the difference in wheel bolts is also due to the steel wheels themselves. The shorter bolts don't have the alloy collars. Could it be matching the different rates of heat expansion between alloy collared bolts matched to steel wheels? Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  11. Thanks guys, I'd forgotten the reason why I'd ditched the steel wheel and gone to the 18" spare wheel. I have a Mazda rx8 18" wheel as a spare so I don't have to fiddle with front to rear exchanges on a country road. Same pcd, centre bore and offset. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  12. Ours is a beast. I can't pry my wifes hands off it. I can drive it just a hard as my 265 and have almost as much fun. It just requires correct technique which can be ignored in the 250\265\275 etc due to their having lsd and different front hubs. Front brake discs are the same as Clio IV RS, rears same as all the megs. Start/stop function is annoying but can be switched off after every start up. Unfortunately, there's no provision to switch off permanently like in the later meg RSs. It may contribute to the 4 year life span of the original battery whereas my 265 managed 5. Wheels can be shared with clio IV rs, not the megs due to similar offset. Engine is the detuned RS motor (via the ecu) and there haven't been many issues with megs which is why I moved across to the 2 megs. I'm very confident with their reliability. Interior is the same as meg rs although only sore point is the gt220 radio software for some unknown reason disables the front tweeters. Thankfully, it's a semi easy fix which just requires a matching radio from the same spec RS Meg. Door pulls should outlast the RSs as the door is smaller and lighter and the leverage is greater. I've upped the standard tyres to the 18" size fitted to the meg RSs. It's cheaper and lifts the profile which is better for gravel roads that we've smashed her along on camping trips. She's no track monster (although at some point I will get her out there) but she's definitely a very capable and comfortable GT cruiser, which is why I can't get rid of her. We had a Skoda RS before her and we still prefer the GT220. Also good, now that my son has pipped me with height (not hard) having the extra leg room in the rear as they have a longer wheelbase than the hatch. Oh, only mod I've done was adding a proper full size spare so trips aren't interrupted by flats. The standard is a different sized steel wheel which can screw around with front diffs. There's plenty of room under the bum for a full size. And a recent repair from a rear ender had the smash repairer praising renault for the way in which the rear plastic tub is fitted along with the material used. Same design principle as the VF commodore plastic tub but simply bolted in instead of being permanently glued, necessitating longer repair times. It also uses a more ductile material that doesn't crack like it does on all the VFs from any impact, leading to flooded boot floor wells. I think that about covers it. Anything I've missed, just ask [emoji4] Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  13. Don't you have a set of Recaros you can throw in there Chuck?
  14. Hiya Nick! Great to meet you there at Eastern Creek yesterday! How did your Little Miss go? Has she been bitten by the bug?
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