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- Today
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Thanks I have had confirmation the timming belt was done still waiting to hear if the water pump was replaced tho. Means it is due again now, any ideas what a major service would cost me including parts?
- Yesterday
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ChrisD99 joined the community - Last week
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Should have offered a free haircut......😜
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Just adding something to this thread. Just got my new NC3 MX5 placed on a truck this morning. CEVA didn't have any discount codes running at the time. But I got into the online chat, said that I was a repeating customer. So they applied 10% off. I might have even been able to get 15% off if I asked. I will try that in the future. Cheers!
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@FredV6 .. still sporting a pommie tan 😎
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And who understands the fairly delicate belt replacement procedure for these specific engines.
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Yep - get the belt replaced ASAP. but please talk to a mechanic who actually realises the F4RT has a belt ! Cheers Justin
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That's not @FredV6. Some say he only wears flip flops.
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So @FredV6is actually a MkIV Megane RS....
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Please send me a PM with your request
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25 cards in a set. Latest batch of stickers (and cards) has gone in the post this weekend!!
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Just to prove I am a real person and not just an enigma 😉
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JPrater joined the community
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wheels149 changed their profile photo -
Belt not chain, and if it’s cheap enough 200,000 km is fine as long as the price allows for a belt change and the k’s
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Newbie here, been on the market for my first Reno. Looking at a 2014 Meg RS 265 cup trophy premium. Bloody amazing to drive. The for mentioned car I am looking at has approx 200,000 km's and although looks a bit shabby would clean up well. Has a loacl Reno service history but not mention of timming belt. The owners was told by the service centre it has a cam chain not a belt. I have read this else where but I can not understand why the factory would make some RS with belts then some with chain? Given the km's I am unsure how to proceed. Would I be better to look for a lower km car? From a driv
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wheels149 joined the community
- Earlier
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Antoine197 joined the community
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86aaron changed their profile photo -
So when I bought the car from the dealer, I insisted it needed to have the timing belt replaced, seeing it had never been replaced (2012 car with 86k kms). I’ve since realised that you’re supposed to replace water pump at the same time as timing belt… this was not done by the dealer, only the timing belt kit itself was changed. I’m pretty pissed off at myself (and at the dealer) about it tbh, should have done better due diligence. The dealer still claimed the cost was $1k… Is this cause for concern? Ideally would have had water pump changed too, but in my mind, the timing belt kit is
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chaksar08 joined the community
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Dylz86 joined the community
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Harry22 changed their profile photo -
Hey mate,
Saw your post on your 140i and it's awesome, you've pretty much done everything i plan on doing!
Just a quick question about a few of the mods if you don't mind.
Would you say the pure800 is worth it? I'm currently on a stage 2+ 98 tune with a dorch pump like yours.
I'm having b16s fitted this week and a diff to go in if sydney ever opens up again and i can get the car up to Advan. I've got the Superpro LCAs, Front strut brace and underbody brace. Would you recommend any other of the suspension mods you've done as really worthwhile? It's my wife's daily so I don't want to go to hardcore with the NVH/ride etc.
Thanks mate!
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No probs. My number is 0411 205 911 if you prefer.
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I'll give you a message in the morning if all good mate, appreciate it.
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The aftermarket one is noticeably cheaper in quality too. When it was pulled out the boot had actually come off it. Send me a msg if you like
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Driven a few with the short shift mod and hated it. Plus you can literally do the mod for $5-10 if you really want it. I find it makes the shift a little vague and actually slower cause you have to be very mindful about which gear you're selecting. I think it's just one of those "was great on my supra" type dealios. Decat will for sure need a tune, will most likely throw a fault code without a tune and cause the ECU to throw tons of fuel to compensate. Even with the tune I'm not sure there's enough in it to justify the cost over just a tune with the stock downpipe. Might make more noise t
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Yeah mate no probs.
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How come? I've already got the shifter and probably wouldn't go back on that. Res delete is obvious. Then I have 400£ ktec credit which is where I figured intake and downpipe come into it, obvs tune needed ontop aswell.
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Hahaha, I deleted it. However the short version is, with the exception of the res delete, I think all those listed are waste of money.
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You mind if I chuck you a message also for a few quick questions?
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Hmm this sounds yeah quite possible and I'm glad someone else has had the issue. As much as that does suck, it beats a whole new clutch. Thankyou for the input I will grab info from my mechanic as to what the exact kit was, chase it up and if non genuine will have to have a look into it.
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I can chime in here with some personal experience having just had this happen to my car over Christmas when installed a clutch kit that I got from Racing Dynamics along with their light flywheel. Issues started after about 1500km or so. After bleeding it numerous times at night it just kept doing same thing with biting point becoming inconsistent on my way home from work. If you have used an aftermarket slave I guarantee that is the problem. Ktec told me they had same issues with aftermarket slaves and wont sell them. Eurocare who sell Renault parts said same thing. You MUST buy a genuine sla
