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Back with a different car (that tried to kill my daughter!!) :-)


jnrdavo
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Hi there, I wasn't that active on this forum (as I actually run 4 other forums myself for different brands), and the car was my wifes, so not modded or anything (was a GT 220).

That was sold last year, but my daughter has just picked up a 2012 Megnne RS 250 Cup (or 265, still checking which one it is)!

She has just turned 20, and sold her i30, and picked this up from Wollongong. Black, black rims.

It's a bit tatty, but looked good in the overcast weather in the morning. Got it home, and buffed to the bonnet as when the sun came out, there were massive swirl marks (I've owned black cars before, so know how difficult they are)... Bonnet came up well with a quick buff (more work required), but of course showed up all the stone chips etc. It's probably been painted before, but not sure how many clear coats they put on..

Anyway, my daughter was driving it with me this morning to pickup a new bulb for the rear (one of the brake/rear lights had a red bulb that had blown? Not sure why it was red).. As she put the foot down a bit (not sure if WOT or not), the accelerator stuck open!! She was quick thinking and pushed in the clutch, and reached down and 'pulled' back the pedal and all was fine.

It scared the preverbal out of her, as you can imagine (she only got her black license on Friday!). I've done a bit of searching, and it looks light it 'might' be the potentiometer in the throttle housing itself, and the whole 'unit' and pedal needs replacing.
I'm more than happy to buy this part and do the work, but also want to make sure that this is 100% (or close enough) to being the problem and associated fix.

So, has anybody heard about this/had the issue and resolved it? I've done searching and what I've mentioned above is the common thoughts, but all of the threads that I've read talk about the 'replacement fix', but it seems nobody has come back after the fix to update if it actually worked.

Anyway, other questions if anybody is interested in helping that we need to look at are:

1. The small display says 'insert key card' when trying to start the car without putting the plastic key in the slot. the GT220 didn't have to do this (but asked to put the key in on occasion), you just had to have the key close (in pocket was fine), then you could press the start battery. I've put in a new battery (even though the old one would lock/unlock the car from 40+ feet away), but no luck. I've also tried the 'hold the buttons for 10 seconds) etc, but still no luck. Is this just a feature of this car? On a side note, the 'unlock' black sensor behind the door handle doesn't seem to do anything, so maybe this is related?

2. You don't seem to have to press the clutch pedal in to start the car (with using the above card). Is this normal, or could it be related to above point 1 issues(s)?

3. The front bonnet latch and the Renault diamond emblem seems to be 'loose'. Is this a common issue to fix, or are we just special?

4. There seemed to be 'old' oil and related sludge across the entire top of the engine. We've degreased it, and can't see any obvious oil leaks, so it could have been there for years (the cover on the engine was still on).. The aircon is also not working correctly (the seller actually advised of this fault), so not sure if that is the leaking part. I've attached a few pics of 'where' I think the leak is coming from.

PIC 1 is showing where the part is. It's under the intercooler pipe (if that is what it is, haven't traced it out yet)
PIC 2 is showing the 'part', which the white label/sticker on it, but it doesn't have any writing.
PIC 3 is the 'part' that I think is leaking, specifically the join that I've highlighted in blue.

Sorry for all the questions, but I do know how these forums have many special people who like to help (as they do on the other forums that I run) and we do really appreciate any help that is offered.

megane pic 3.jpg

megane pic 2.jpg

megane pic 1.jpg

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Sorry to hear about what happened but glad everyone's ok.

It's probably a 250 if it's a 2012. 

and if it's definitely a cup, not trophee, then the insert card thing could be that it doesn't have the keyless start. Could explain the clutch thing too. 

 

Do you have pics of the exterior including the headlights, as well as interior?

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Hey mate, welcome along!

The pedal is a not uncommon issue, and I do know of a member that I lent my spare pedal to and it solved his issue, so yep will most likely solve the problem. New or used are not ridiculously expensive.

Oil weeping across the top of the engine is completely normal, the oil weeps out of the cam cover bolts. Whilst it looks like a lot of oil it really is just a few ml, oil leaks always look way worse than what they actually are. The accepted fix is to remove each cover bolt, smear a small bead of sealant on the underside of the head of the bolt and replace and retorque to spec. It is imperative you do this 1 at a time and replace as the cam cover also holds the cams in place. So again, 1 by 1! Or you could just live with it and give it's a clean occasionally as I do.

I have a similar car, basically the povo spec 250. Yes you have to insert the key to start, and you don't need to have the clutch in, it will refuse to start if it's in gear and clutch not depressed though.

Let us know how you get on.

Edited by Matt205
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1 hour ago, Matt205 said:

The pedal is a not uncommon issue, and I do know of a member that I lent my spare pedal to and it solved his issue, so yep will most likely solve the problem. New or used are not ridiculously expensive.

As Matt said, I replacement pedal (potentiometer) should fix this - it did mine, when Matt gave me his spare pedal (ps. I have still have your replacement spare to hand over @Matt205)

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Part number for pedal on my RS265 was 180100026r. $400 from Renault by memory . Part number is on sticker at back of pedal, of course. You can lubricate them but unsure of long term success. I was lucky enough to pick one up from pick a part for $20 by memory from a standard Meg. Only difference was it didn''t have the silver cover on the pedal bit. Working fine still.

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don't see the need to ''fix''

when Matt was my instructor he always said ''gas gas gas'' 

sorry - just had to 😇

 

 

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32 minutes ago, jnrdavo said:

Part has been ordered from Melb, so all going well, should hopefully have it by the weekend.

Now to work out how to swap out 🤣

A couple of nuts and an electrical plug, easy as.

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Ah the sticky throttle - can be as simple as the floor mat getting caught on the throttle, when the mat moves back towards the driver just an inch - problem solved - check it first before going further

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1 hour ago, JDB said:

Ah the sticky throttle - can be as simple as the floor mat getting caught on the throttle, when the mat moves back towards the driver just an inch - problem solved - check it first before going further

Yes Matt often gets caught on the throttle! 

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16 hours ago, JDB said:

Ah the sticky throttle - can be as simple as the floor mat getting caught on the throttle, when the mat moves back towards the driver just an inch - problem solved - check it first before going further

It wasn't that way unfortunately. She actually reached down and pulled the pedal up with her hand.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Ok ,I thought I'd give a belated update.

New pedal in, and the car was 200 times worse. Driving down the local back street, the accelerator was sticking/going to 100% every 20 seconds or so. Because I was expecting this, I would just have to 'lift' up the pedal with my foot and continue driving around the block.
Told me daughter, and she was not amused, as she had just forked out for the new pedal. I swapped in the old pedal as the car was going off to a local renault independant the following couple of days.
I drove it with the 'old' pedal in, and it was back to normal. My daughter then drove the car out of the garage to the street and commented that I'd 'stuffed up' the pedal and the angle was different.

I took a look again and could see that I hadn't put it in properly, and use the middle plastic circle/alignment pin that was supposed to go in the mounting bracket. It was 'behind' the bracket, but the pedal was still working. With this now found out, I swapped in the new pedal, aligned it correctly (using the plastic pin) and took it for a drive. It worked fine, no issues like I experienced before, and as/more importantly, the pedal was in the right position.

So, it looks and works fine now. Obviously with the old pedal in the 'wrong' alignment, it didn't show any issues, where the new pedal incorrect aligned, did, so that to me indicates that the onboard position sensor(?) was not working on the old pedal, but working fine on the new.

Anyway, I hope this helps others in the future.

 

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