Rasputin Posted 5, January 2012 Report Share Posted 5, January 2012 Hey everyone, After a 4wd owner turned my last honda into a....more compact version, I set about looking for something more mature that still had a fun side. Looking around I found a few examples in my area and using the tips on buying a used clio from these forums I got myself a pretty good deal (so far) in a blue 2002 172. A few here probably know it, black and silver number plates RS-0172. These cars sure put a smile on your face, and all the features on it are a lovely bonus. I can't wait to get back into some motorkhanas now. Going off these forums and the advice of the seller, I'll be taking it to Paul from AP Automotive ASAP, but there are a few things that look to need doing so I should be kept busy enough: Replace exhaust (muffler is in a bit of a state, will research my options on this) Air filter (will probably get the k&n filter that goes in the stock airbox...I'd rather clean that than replace all the time) Oil filter + oil as it just hit 80,000 (all belts, other filters done 15,000km ago in 2010) Get assessment of gearbox leak, I've read here that weeping is normal but I'd like to know how close mine is to needing a fix, as there looks to be a bit more than there should be Fix the gear shifter boot as it keeps popping out and is flapping about in a distracting way The seemingly ubiquitous steering wheel thumb grips Get the second key coded (physically fine but does not work as a remote) Mount the OMP front and rear strut braces properly Brake discs in the near future I removed the K&N 57i - Gen II air filter kit that came installed, and figure I can use the proceeds from sale on things the car needs, and fixed the faulty xenon washer jet so the car and I are getting to know each other already. Glad to see there's such a strong community here and I'm looking forward to getting involved. I'll chuck some pictures up soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pez Posted 5, January 2012 Report Share Posted 5, January 2012 Welcome, you seem to have a pretty good grips on all the TLC needed, good luck and hope to see you at a drive soon. There is alot of support for your problems on here... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azz Posted 5, January 2012 Report Share Posted 5, January 2012 Welcome Rasputin, Grats on the pickup, glad you found the forum, it truly is an invaluable resource as it looks like you've realised. "Get the second key coded (physically fine but does not work as a remote)" have you tried the method outline in this thread viewtopic.php?f=26&t=8292&hilit=key+immobiliser Keep us updated on how the maintenance goes and feel free to post some pics up Azz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eire Posted 5, January 2012 Report Share Posted 5, January 2012 Welcome, congrats on the 172. Has a simular prob with my 172 and the gear stick Gator, always poped out when selecting 3rd/5th. Dob of super glue (so it wil be easy to crack incase you need access again) - problom solved Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griffyn Posted 5, January 2012 Report Share Posted 5, January 2012 Welcome, welcome Glad we have been of use, and hope you'll stick around to trickle some more into the pot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rasputin Posted 5, January 2012 Author Report Share Posted 5, January 2012 Thanks for the welcome guys, Yeah Blue182, I hope to get along to a drive day / meet the next time one is held in NSW, good to put some faces to names. Cheers for the link to the immobiliser info Azz, I'll give it a go in the AM and see how it goes, I tried the second key (seller had gotten it sent over from europe to replace a lost one) in the ignition before and no love from the immobiliser so I'll be cheering if that solves the issue. Eire I have clipped it back into place a few times but mine comes out when I move to Reverse...I wonder if I can't create some more slack in the the boot (i.e. like lowering a trouser hem) and stop that from happening, but otherwise yes it might be duct tape to the rescue yet again (it's already patching a hole in the flexible stock intake piping until I can go get some plastic tubing and do the thing right That's what it's all about Griffyn. I'm feeling good about leaving the jap cars behind and glad to know there's some others on this side of the fence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rasputin Posted 5, January 2012 Author Report Share Posted 5, January 2012 Ok so I was impatient, tried the immobiliser trick but no good. Going from this document: http://www.matrasport.dk/Cars/Espace/va ... EMENTO.pdf it seems that the method you linked me to is to help re-sync keys which have been 'left behind' by the rolling code. I guess the issue with mine is it was never programmed to the car in the first place, so it can't just play catch up. Was well worth a shot though. At the moment it can unlock the doors manually but nothing else, I better get that sorted ASAP! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nemz Posted 5, January 2012 Report Share Posted 5, January 2012 Welcome Rasputin! Congrats on the purchase. Hope to see you on a drive day soon and can't wait for the photos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamR Posted 6, January 2012 Report Share Posted 6, January 2012 Welcome and congrats on the purchase! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS-172 Posted 6, January 2012 Report Share Posted 6, January 2012 Welcome, catch you at the next social meet Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rasputin Posted 7, January 2012 Author Report Share Posted 7, January 2012 The pics are in... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf Posted 7, January 2012 Report Share Posted 7, January 2012 Hi and welcome aboard. Going by those pics, a very nice and tidy 172. Sounds like the key has not been coded yet and should cost around $50-$60. Don;t pay too much more than that. Thumb grips no longer exist, so it's a new sterring wheel at arpund $490 (plus shipping), or retrim (which i cannot help to lean towards). Any other bits, feel free to contact me if you'd like. All the best, look after her, and enjoy the ride. Cheers, WOLF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rasputin Posted 7, January 2012 Author Report Share Posted 7, January 2012 Thanks Wolf, looking around the forum it seems like you're the go-to guy for parts so I'll keep that in mind. I'll have to see what Paul V says is needed. Keen to get in for a service ASAP. Could AP auto do the coding or dealer only? Or anyone with a CLIP? Anyone have experience with hard aftermarket grip inserts like these carbon fibre ones? http://streamlinecarbon.com/v2/products ... umb-grips/ http://streamlinecarbon.com/v2/wp-conte ... -badge.jpg In good news: the gear boot seems to be staying in place now, and I found two K&n filters online so I'll be able to fit myself out and pass on the other to another member. Anyone know the history of this car at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf Posted 8, January 2012 Report Share Posted 8, January 2012 Those grips look great. Cheers, WOLF ps: if you need parts, make sure obtain part numbers once Paul advises you what is needed. I don't think he likes getting the part numbers anymore as they give him grief at Renault. I will need a VIN to help out on this department when the need arises. Thus far, think it's only the dealers that can code. But please share again if you have any outside luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rasputin Posted 9, January 2012 Author Report Share Posted 9, January 2012 Just got my car serviced at Gosford (AP Automotive not open again yet and I needed a service ASAP) http://www.europeanca***rvices.com/ They will be able to code keys from next week apparently. $470 worth of service later , all is well. But on the horizon I will need engine mounts replaced (no quote, will decide between OEM and stiffer mounts), clutch and gearbox seal in 20,000 or so (quoted $1750 all up for those), and a minor oil leak somewhere about the inlet manifold. Clip scan showed all the electrics to be functioning well though which is a plus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griffyn Posted 9, January 2012 Report Share Posted 9, January 2012 Gearbox selector shaft seal? To do that properly you have to split the box open if I recall correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rasputin Posted 9, January 2012 Author Report Share Posted 9, January 2012 Yep, which is why it'll just be kept an eye on until the clutch is nearing it's end...two birds with one stone. Also will be teaching the lady how to drive so I'll try to get that out of the way first. (Don't call the police, she's only a year younger than me...just never got her licence) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kitestyle2 Posted 9, January 2012 Report Share Posted 9, January 2012 The gator is only cable tied on (mine anyway) with some effort you can work it down the shaft a little. Then superglue round the contact points and weigh it down for half an hour. Worked for me. Those thumb grips are super pricey but they look really nice in the pics. There is also a homebrew method on cliosport using some kind of polymer putty stuff. Oh and not sure about a 172 being 'more mature' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kitestyle2 Posted 9, January 2012 Report Share Posted 9, January 2012 http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthre ... ce!/page24 145 pounds plus postage for a whole wheel retrim in leather plus carbon inserts. Not too bad! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkie86 Posted 9, January 2012 Report Share Posted 9, January 2012 Welcome! Looks like you've got everything under control. I do remember seeing those number plates but can't place where it was. With the gear gaitor, just buy a new one from Wolf. Mine was broken an I took a while to get around to getting a quote and it's only something like $15 for a whole new leather gaitor, plastic clip and cable tie and only takes mins to install. Catch you at the next meet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rasputin Posted 9, January 2012 Author Report Share Posted 9, January 2012 North Shore Renault at Waitara want $140 to code the key :$ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielG Posted 10, January 2012 Report Share Posted 10, January 2012 North Shore Renault at Waitara want $140 to code the key :$ Should be 30 minutes labour... at least that's what Mentone Renault here told me couple of years ago when I tried to get my 2nd key done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exar Kun Posted 10, January 2012 Report Share Posted 10, January 2012 Anyone have experience with hard aftermarket grip inserts like these carbon fibre ones? http://streamlinecarbon.com/v2/products ... umb-grips/ http://streamlinecarbon.com/v2/wp-conte ... -badge.jpg They look great! A bit pricey is the only issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rasputin Posted 13, January 2012 Author Report Share Posted 13, January 2012 The gator is only cable tied on (mine anyway) with some effort you can work it down the shaft a little. Then superglue round the contact points and weigh it down for half an hour. Worked for me. Those thumb grips are super pricey but they look really nice in the pics. There is also a homebrew method on cliosport using some kind of polymer putty stuff. Oh and not sure about a 172 being 'more mature' Not being particularly skilled at working shafts, I gave it a go anyway and just got a teensy little bit more slack so it wasn't quite so stiff and after really ramming it into place it seems to be right at home. (ok none of that sounded ok, but the fact is it's secure again with no glue needed) Yeah they look lovely but for the cost, I better spend cash on the things that matter first. They'll be the cherry on top once the servicing/brakes/suspension etc are sorted. Oh, then you should've seen my first honda those 16kg/9kg dampers were just peachy on Sydney roads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rasputin Posted 13, January 2012 Author Report Share Posted 13, January 2012 http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?513744-1*2-Steering-Wheel-Retrimming-Service!/page24 145 pounds plus postage for a whole wheel retrim in leather plus carbon inserts. Not too bad! Drooling over some of those, thanks for the link! The leather inserts look lovelier than the carbon and I'm assuming more comfortable too. Shipping costs would be a factor, and probably prevent sending the exchange wheel back so extra there. But the idea is solid. Interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rasputin Posted 13, January 2012 Author Report Share Posted 13, January 2012 Welcome! Looks like you've got everything under control. I do remember seeing those number plates but can't place where it was. With the gear gaitor, just buy a new one from Wolf. Mine was broken an I took a while to get around to getting a quote and it's only something like $15 for a whole new leather gaitor, plastic clip and cable tie and only takes mins to install. Catch you at the next meet! Sorted for now, but I'll keep that in mind thanks. I'll be inner west myself in 2 weeks, moving time! The last owner lived in Marrickville so there's a pretty good chance you crossed paths. Cya round. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rasputin Posted 13, January 2012 Author Report Share Posted 13, January 2012 North Shore Renault at Waitara want $140 to code the key :$ Should be 30 minutes labour... at least that's what Mentone Renault here told me couple of years ago when I tried to get my 2nd key done. Yeah they're not playing nice unfortunately. I'll have to assess my options and see who else can do the work. Though if I lose the main key in the meantime I'll wish I coughed up the $140 I'm sure. I might call Waitara back and ask if 30mins labour sounds about right and approach from that angle. Much like the mechanic I took the car to for the service who charged me $125 to check the codes on the computer...must be the price of electricity to run these machines! But more importantly Daniel, I'm crazy keen for that exhaust of yours to get here! What made you change anyhow? How is the new pipe treating you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave200 Posted 13, January 2012 Report Share Posted 13, January 2012 North Shore Renault at Waitara want $140 to code the key :$ Should be 30 minutes labour... at least that's what Mentone Renault here told me couple of years ago when I tried to get my 2nd key done. Much like the mechanic I took the car to for the service who charged me $125 to check the codes on the computer...must be the price of electricity to run these machines! Electricity aside, lets not forget labour costs here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rasputin Posted 14, January 2012 Author Report Share Posted 14, January 2012 That's true, but more labour than I'd bargained for. The main thing is the mech at Gosford I went to looked to be on the ball, drives a 172 himself and seemed like he cared so you can't put a price on that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rasputin Posted 16, October 2012 Author Report Share Posted 16, October 2012 Thanks for the support when I first joined up, it has seen me through to my first delivery: Though I am having issues with the fuel rail connection, the old connector (brittle, came off) was stuck in the high pressure fuel line piping, and I can't for the life of me get the new connector inserted far enough into the same piping (even when i got mad and rougher with it) The piece that I am talking about is circled in red in the photo below, and the pipe runs off to the left. (Not my photo) Is it usual to have to renew this? Or am I more likely to be the problem? I haven't been able to find any tips via search, possibly due to my clumsy terminology... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rasputin Posted 17, October 2012 Author Report Share Posted 17, October 2012 Local mechanics were nice enough to pop around and take a look. Their position is that the connector cannot be replaced alone, the entire high pressure fuel line assembly (down into the drivers footwell?) would have to be ordered from renault and replaced as it is apparently heatshrunk onto the connector. Let's hope I can find a better solution through the mighty search function. Or get the assembly for a wreckers. I just want to get her running so I can take her to Paul V for some TLC! And then it's time for me to get some lessons under my belt and hit the track. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rasputin Posted 18, October 2012 Author Report Share Posted 18, October 2012 Quoted $108 to have the assembly supplied, getting the car taken to AP Automotive in a few weeks Oh yes. My new years resolution is to renew my cams licence (Also, this dealer gave a $140 quote for recoding a supplied key. Same as the previous dealer I had asked) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rasputin Posted 22, October 2012 Author Report Share Posted 22, October 2012 List of mods to be done in the coming weeks: Gaz coilovers (with additionnal front+rear camber adjustment bolts/spacers as needed) Whiteline rear swaybar (ARB for those playing in the UK?) KTR top mounts DBA brake discs with DS 2000 performance pads, braided lines, new bearings all round (unsure if calipers should be redone?) Replace clutch, handbrake cables Devil exhaust repaired and fitted, with wrapped+coated stock headers and new mounts timing belt, aux belt,dephaser, water pump etc, lambda sensors, tdc sensor replaced, new ngk sparks, filters replaced (unsure if any other gaskets, parts etc need replacing at this time, will see what Paul says) new oem clutch and ktr lightened flywheel samco coolant pipes 15" rims+tyres (can't decide what to do, i have some lightweight 15x6.5 aftermarkets, and stock rims. Thinking aftermarkets with good street tyres and stock with semis on them...will depend on balance of street vs competitive i guess...) matched, coated inlet manifolds (no ptfe gaskets, just regular) omp strut bars Later mods: Upgrade battery, grounds. RS tuner once complete. Basic stereo upgrade, 182 manifold and 172 cat, bushings as needed. Replace spare with space saver. Me: Advanced driving lessons, weight loss Anything from this list (or not on it) that people would recommend to go through with or stay away from? My process is generally to amass the parts and then upgrade as other work is being done to the car due to maintenence etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rasputin Posted 23, October 2012 Author Report Share Posted 23, October 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griffyn Posted 23, October 2012 Report Share Posted 23, October 2012 List of mods to be done in the coming weeks: Gaz coilovers (with additionnal front+rear camber adjustment bolts/spacers as needed) Whiteline rear swaybar (ARB for those playing in the UK?) KTR top mounts DBA brake discs with DS 2000 performance pads, braided lines, new bearings all round (unsure if calipers should be redone?) Replace clutch, handbrake cables Devil exhaust repaired and fitted, with wrapped+coated stock headers and new mounts timing belt, aux belt,dephaser, water pump etc, lambda sensors, tdc sensor replaced, new ngk sparks, filters replaced (unsure if any other gaskets, parts etc need replacing at this time, will see what Paul says) new oem clutch and ktr lightened flywheel samco coolant pipes 15" rims+tyres (can't decide what to do, i have some lightweight 15x6.5 aftermarkets, and stock rims. Thinking aftermarkets with good street tyres and stock with semis on them...will depend on balance of street vs competitive i guess...) matched, coated inlet manifolds (no ptfe gaskets, just regular) omp strut bars Later mods: Upgrade battery, grounds. RS tuner once complete. Basic stereo upgrade, 182 manifold and 172 cat, bushings as needed. Replace spare with space saver. Me: Advanced driving lessons, weight loss Anything from this list (or not on it) that people would recommend to go through with or stay away from? My process is generally to amass the parts and then upgrade as other work is being done to the car due to maintenence etc. CAMS licence first, get out on track. The cars are good out-of-the-box and really don't need all that much to be FUN! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rasputin Posted 23, October 2012 Author Report Share Posted 23, October 2012 Application to renew is pending but car is in shop for heavy maintenance so might as well replace stock with aftermarket when it makes sense (will trust Paul on that one). Basically the problem was that the car was not going to survive a day on the track (already at end of life for the brakes, belts, clutch, some mounts) etc. But yes, I've done some low-level days before, and am well aware that the stock clio outclasses me any day of the week, but I plan to grow into this girl. On which note, if anyone is keen to dip their toes in the water with me and go do some training days, let me know. I need a helmet... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rasputin Posted 16, November 2012 Author Report Share Posted 16, November 2012 Paul V did a wonderful job as expected, even in the absence of my delivery from a particular online uk seller (weeks late and apparently not their problem, don't even ask! Risks of doing business overseas unfortunately) Dodgy phone images for now, better shots and info to come later Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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