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its a bit of a bitch, but not that bad after the first time!

 

Here's how you do it:

* Remove the plastic cover from below the engine (4 bolts)

* Run the car up to temp so that the oil is very warm (dont burn yourself though!)

* then you can drain the sump

 

The next bit i havent tried, but i've heard its done by the authorised dealers...

 

* remove the heat sink at the front of the engine, it sits above the oil filter

(i've normally left it & struggled!)

 

* pack some old newspaper UNDER the oil filter & then remove it

 

 

see how you go, i think i got pics somewhere, but my home poota is dead

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Apart from the oil & filter, any other parts required? My 205's had a copper sump plug washer that had to be renewed each time.

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Apart from the oil & filter, any other parts required? My 205's had a copper sump plug washer that had to be renewed each time.

 

yeah you'll need one of those as well!

When i go in for a 10k service i get em to add a filter & washer to the bill...

Its on the front seat when i jump in!

 

You can also get em from supercheap i *think* though... supercheap... hmmm prolly made from old romanian tractors

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Apart from the oil & filter, any other parts required? My 205's had a copper sump plug washer that had to be renewed each time.

 

yeah you'll need one of those as well!

When i go in for a 10k service i get em to add a filter & washer to the bill...

Its on the front seat when i jump in!

 

You can also get em from supercheap i *think* though... supercheap... hmmm prolly made from old romanian tractors

Thanks for the info, Nate. You talkin' about BA Falcon's there???

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Apart from the oil & filter, any other parts required? My 205's had a copper sump plug washer that had to be renewed each time.

 

yeah you'll need one of those as well!

When i go in for a 10k service i get em to add a filter & washer to the bill...

Its on the front seat when i jump in!

 

You can also get em from supercheap i *think* though... supercheap... hmmm prolly made from old romanian tractors

 

Paul the Renault mechanic said no new sump plug washer required, it's not a compressible type and is OK for a few times at least. The heat sink you take off is above the injectors, and the whole job is easier if you unplug the injectors and get the cabling out of the way. I'm an expert now, watched Paul do it the other week :wink:

 

Easy when you know how and have the right tools (including a hoist :wink:) but it really was cheap enough to have done that I wouldn't be bothered to do it myself.

 

Cheers,

Paul.

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Apart from the oil & filter, any other parts required? My 205's had a copper sump plug washer that had to be renewed each time.

 

yeah you'll need one of those as well!

When i go in for a 10k service i get em to add a filter & washer to the bill...

Its on the front seat when i jump in!

 

You can also get em from supercheap i *think* though... supercheap... hmmm prolly made from old romanian tractors

 

Paul the Renault mechanic said no new sump plug washer required, it's not a compressible type and is OK for a few times at least. The heat sink you take off is above the injectors, and the whole job is easier if you unplug the injectors and get the cabling out of the way. I'm an expert now, watched Paul do it the other week :wink:

 

 

 

Easy when you know how and have the right tools (including a hoist :wink:) but it really was cheap enough to have done that I wouldn't be bothered to do it myself.

 

Cheers,

Paul.

 

So what tools do i need to remove the sump plug?

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Paul the Renault mechanic said no new sump plug washer required, it's not a compressible type and is OK for a few times at least.

 

not that i'm doubting him... but i was pretty sure it was compressible!

I'll check...

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Yes Nate, the earlier sump plug washers were a copper / asbestos

composite type, one use only! where the later type design features

a bonded rubber seal which can be used several times.

 

Asbestos!?!?!?! eeeeeeeek :shock:

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sorry didn't mean to scare you with the asbestos component. It is now

no longer used for obvious reasons, back in the bad/good old days

it was used in the production of brakes, clutches & gaskets for its

high resistance to heat, they now use alternative materials. I can

recall they were still using asbestos in making of cyl head gskts

5-6 yrs ago.

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sorry didn't mean to scare you with the asbestos component. It is now

no longer used for obvious reasons, back in the bad/good old days

it was used in the production of brakes, clutches & gaskets for its

high resistance to heat, they now use alternative materials. I can

recall they were still using asbestos in making of cyl head gskts

5-6 yrs ago.

 

Even brakepads have only become totally asbestos free in the past couple of years.

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Was wondering if any of you guys know what is the best grade of oil for a RSC 172?? am comming up to the 15K mark and would like to do a between service oil change.

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Was wondering if any of you guys know what is the best grade of oil for a RSC 172?? am comming up to the 15K mark and would like to do a between service oil change.

Do a search on oil, wade. Plenty of opinions around here, for sure. If you're coming up to 15K then surely that's a scheduled service, not an "in between". Quite a few of us here do oil every 5 or 7.5K (ie in between the 15K scheduled services).

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I'll do the search, Thanks.

The first service was at 10K, the next scheduled service is at 20K (or so the service manual says). Every 10K interval. So I'm a bit puzzled. Does your info vary from this??

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I'll do the search, Thanks.

The first service was at 10K, the next scheduled service is at 20K (or so the service manual says). Every 10K interval. So I'm a bit puzzled. Does your info vary from this??

Sorry wade, you're correct. brain fade on my part :oops: . Yep, 15K would be in between services.

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Guys,

 

Just wondering where is the best place to service the clio sport. I was hoping a workshop that knows these cars well,.

Welcome blkclio172. Probably not the best place to ask this question :wink: . Try searching through the tech & car care section. Maybe also update your profile with a location so that we can help direct you to the right place (eg. Paul Vassallo in Sydney is a long drive from Perth 8) ).

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little OT

 

when you change oil filter if you want install oil temp/prex gauge you can fit this (in red)

 

 

captatoreprex-tempolio.jpg

 

parts required:

7711150688 77EUR + vat

7711154259 7EUR + vat

7700736647 0,60EUR + vat

 

 

 

/ot

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OK im having a go @ this tomorrow.....

 

In order to get to the filter apart from small hands do I need to remove anything??

 

Also should I replace the washer?? If so is this a standard type from any local shop??

 

Amy other hints would be appreciated

 

Thanks

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anyone know where to get this from?

 

little OT

 

when you change oil filter if you want install oil temp/prex gauge you can fit this (in red)

 

 

captatoreprex-tempolio.jpg

 

parts required:

7711150688 77EUR + vat

7711154259 7EUR + vat

7700736647 0,60EUR + vat

 

 

 

/ot

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speco do a similar item.. take an oil filter into autobarn and ask for one to suit.

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heaps easy guys,

remove the plastic oil tray.

to remove the sump plug you will need to use a 8mm square hole sump plug from memory so its very small.

always turn anti clockwise when loosening the sump plug bolt.

 

always replace the sump washer when re - tightening once the oil is drained.

double check u have tightened the sump bolt, if that is not tightened properly the cost is a new motor which = $$$

 

with the filter, once u loosen it, be careful when taking it off, take it off slowly and let the oil drip out of it bit by bit, try to use a rag to clean any mess around and any that u make, also use the rag to take the filter off when it gets nice and oily.

 

when putting a new filter on, always read how many turns once the oil seal makes contact with the bottom of the engine, tighten clock wise..they dont have to be extremely tight, just enough to stay on.. always lube up the seal on the new filter with a touch of new oil. hope this helps

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Good explanation! However, with care the sump plug washer can be used at least twice though at $1.70 why would you bother. I don't remove the heat sink to get at the filter. I made a tool from a small bit of flat bar with two M6 setscrews which fits into the convolutions on top of the filter. Easy off and easy on! Because I live in Tasmania and there are no service agents here I order my parts (filters and washers, brake pads, timing belt, clutch kit etc.) from a Melbourne Renault dealer. The small freight cost is no hassle and everything lands on my doorstep :wink: .

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The next bit i havent tried, but i've heard its done by the authorised dealers...

 

* remove the heat sink at the front of the engine, it sits above the oil filter

(i've normally left it & struggled!)

 

* pack some old newspaper UNDER the oil filter & then remove it

 

Paul from AutoParis suggested a 1/4" drive 10mm socket with extension bar to undo the two nuts which hold the heat sink. Used a long 10mm socket - 1/4" with a converter to 3/8" drive which is the perfect length, took it off cold then drove car to warm oil and then used filter wrench to just loosen filter slightly before driving onto ramps. Letting the sump drain fully and then putting a plastic bag around the filter after the initial couple of hand turns does help to catch some but not all the oil.

 

Pleasantly surprised at how easy the operation is compared to other cars, even for an old bugger.

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Another way to do an oil change (but without changing the filter ) is using a vacuum pump . The tube gopes down through the dipstick hole and sucks the oil out of the engine. Yes it wil leave a small amount of oil in the sump but a very quick and non messy way to chnage oil for intermediate home servicing. I have had one for years and it only takes a few minutes to change the oil.

 

Just a thought

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Hey guys, I'm approching 5000km on my RS250 and am keen on doing an oil change - I'll probably get my family mechanic to help me out with this at his workshop as I am yet to get a vacuum pump and otherwise have not the equipment nor the space to do this at home.

 

I'll buy the oil myself, might not bother replacing the filter (maybe) but all this talk of non-reusable sump plugs has me a little concerned. Will I need to buy a replacement sump plug for my 250 before doing this?

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If its the same setup as the clio 200, you only need a replacement sump nut washer/o-ring

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its a bit of a bitch, but not that bad after the first time!

 

Here's how you do it:

* Remove the plastic cover from below the engine (4 bolts)

* Run the car up to temp so that the oil is very warm (dont burn yourself though!)

* then you can drain the sump

 

The next bit i havent tried, but i've heard its done by the authorised dealers...

 

* remove the heat sink at the front of the engine, it sits above the oil filter

(i've normally left it & struggled!)

 

* pack some old newspaper UNDER the oil filter & then remove it

 

 

see how you go, i think i got pics somewhere, but my home poota is dead

 

I went to my mechanic to change the filter for me as I bought the parts myself (brother works at repco)

I didn't see him use any newspaper, has he done it wrong?

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I didn't see him use any newspaper, has he done it wrong?

 

I don't think that the newspaper was the key part of the process :wink:

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Just thought to add some to the topic . I have a specialist tool shop and stock sump tools for renaults [ 8mm.sq ] Also special oil filter tools to suit the factory and Purflux brand that fit perfectly like a socket . I ran a 172 for many years in Victoria without the heat sink on the manifold to no consequence and that gave good access to the filter . My current 197 R27 access is easier from below and changing the subject a little , the 197 cambelt is far easier to change than the earlier car . Both my girlfriends 250 and my 275R are accessed from under the car so safety stands are a must . Hoist makes it easier . On oils , the current pricing on the good drop from Renault [ Elf ] makes it pointless to take chances with the unknown , although there are heaps of good brand name oils in 5w40 or 10w40 if you don,t  live close to a dealer .

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Hey Guys,

 

Just wondering if anyone has used other oil than ELF in their Renaults??

Preferably a Megane 250cup ???

 

Thanks

There is a company in slacks creek selling Elf oil below cost price i was quoted 3 5ltr bottles for 70 bucks!

 

They bought alot of stock from a dealership that went into administration and have alot of parts like oil filters and sump drain plugs etc....

 

Send me a PM and ill give you the details.

Although most if not all pqrts they have are for newer Renaults like the clio 3/4 and Meg 3 etc...if you have part numbers it makes it even easier.I hope that helps.

Edited by kaesh

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There is a company in slacks creek selling Elf oil below cost price i was quoted 3 5ltr bottles for 70 bucks!

They bought alot of stock from a dealership that went into administration and have alot of parts like oil filters and sump drain plugs etc....

Send me a PM and ill give you the details.

Although most if not all pqrts they have are for newer Renaults like the clio 3/4 and Meg 3 etc...if you have part numbers it makes it even easier.I hope that helps.

 

I think I know who that is. I'm buying new car mats from a guy at slacks creek and I found out he also sells elf oil so I'll suss it out tomorrow.

 

Thanks

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Hey Guys,

 

Just wondering if anyone has used other oil than ELF in their Renaults??

Preferably a Megane 250cup ???

 

Thanks

 

I use Nulon and Wade uses Penrite - both are fully Synthetic.

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Hey Guys,

 

Just wondering if anyone has used other oil than ELF in their Renaults??

Preferably a Megane 250cup ???

 

Thanks

Hey there.

 

I'm using 5w-40 Motul Sport ester.

 

Purchased it directly from the Australian Motul importer but I believe you can order it through Autobarn. It's a true synthetic oil (made from Ester and PAO Group 4 and 5 base oils, not hydro cracked mineral oil) It's not cheap but my Trophy R seems to absolutely love the stuff so I consider it money well spent.

post-18140-0-89048400-1465536929_thumb.jpg

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