tommygt Posted 29, August 2016 Report Share Posted 29, August 2016 Hi all, As topic says im looking at buying a 2011 Megane RS 250, comparing it to the 265 and 275 is the tune the only difference or is it actual hardware ? eg turbo size etc? Also who is best to contact in melbourne for a stage 3 tune on this car? I plan on doing all bolt ons and get maximum power out of this engine. Also what would a stage 3 tune cost? Or am I better off buying an off the shelf tune like Bluefin or something similar? Just wish to know what works best on this car Also are there any common faults/issues I should watch out for when buying a used one? Any advice is much appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acidwestern Posted 29, August 2016 Report Share Posted 29, August 2016 The drivetrain is the same - stage 3 will be hard to do reliably and not many people have done so - megs aren't evos.Best bet for tuning is a remote RSTuner tune or there are a few off the shelf stage 1 maps through some other tuning companies. I'd be looking for history/record of the timing belts being done on an rs250, they are getting to that age. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiMonster Posted 30, August 2016 Report Share Posted 30, August 2016 Hopefully I'll be in the same boat before the end of the year... Seems at this age timing belts should have been done ... Some recent posts about clutch travel... possibly some aging issues with clutch, so maybe check the pedal is :low" uptake, rather than high-ish ? Also posts about the window switches (regulators?) sticking, etcetera. Seat wear on the Recaros seems evident on some too. Any other suggestions for a "buyers guide" for earlier Meg IIIs ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIGMET Posted 30, August 2016 Report Share Posted 30, August 2016 Always check the timing belt has been done on time (costs around $770 at Alpine Affaire in Ringwood, VIC), and check for any evidence of wear on gearbox and engine mounts. You can tell if the mounts are failing sometimes due to excessive vibration at idle. Honestly, best bet is to do what I did and pay a specialist workshop an hour labour to do a mechanical inspection (a RWC only says it is safe to drive, not that it is in good condition). I got a compression test, all mounts checked out, full underbody check for chassis repair or damage, and suspension check. Only cost me $105 which was so worth it for the peace of mind.Other typical issues are driver's window, wear on the recaro seat bolsters and seat rails, and cheap tyres being put on to pass RWC. Mine have heaps of tread (Toyo Proxes T1 Sports) but can't put power down in 3rd gear unless the road is dead flat and dry. I'm looking at at least a $1,500 bill to upgrade to Pilot Sport 3s or Pilot Super Sports, so bear that cost in mind! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommygt Posted 30, August 2016 Author Report Share Posted 30, August 2016 Appreciate all the comments ! Acidwestern- why do you say stage 3 is hard to do reliably? By saying stage 3 i mean i wanna do intercooler, full exhaust, intake, any mods to fiel delivery, full tune, this should be good for 350-400HP I believe? Stock keeping turbo and internals. Who can do the RSTUNER tune in Melbourne? When is the timing belt due to be done on these cars? SIGMET- pre-purchase inspection is a must, can you recommend anyone who knows renaults in Melbourne? Id rather not go to any mechanic... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIGMET Posted 30, August 2016 Report Share Posted 30, August 2016 Can't go past Alpine Affaire, they're in Ringwood. Good blokes, good service and they know RS cars better than anyone Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBH58 Posted 30, August 2016 Report Share Posted 30, August 2016 Other typical issues are driver's window, wear on the recaro seat bolsters and seat rails, and cheap tyres being put on to pass RWC. Mine have heaps of tread (Toyo Proxes T1 Sports) but can't put power down in 3rd gear unless the road is dead flat and dry. I'm looking at at least a $1,500 bill to upgrade to Pilot Sport 3s or Pilot Super Sports, so bear that cost in mind! Good advice on tyres. You are most definitely selling the Meg 3 experience short if you don't put the very best rubber on it. They really are only as good as the boots they are wearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIGMET Posted 30, August 2016 Report Share Posted 30, August 2016 Just a trap I've fallen into that I wanted to save someone else from! That being said I feel I got mine at a very good price so I won't complain too much Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No152 Posted 30, August 2016 Report Share Posted 30, August 2016 Appreciate all the comments ! Acidwestern- why do you say stage 3 is hard to do reliably? By saying stage 3 i mean i wanna do intercooler, full exhaust, intake, any mods to fiel delivery, full tune, this should be good for 350-400HP I believe? Stock keeping turbo and internals. Who can do the RSTUNER tune in Melbourne? When is the timing belt due to be done on these cars? SIGMET- pre-purchase inspection is a must, can you recommend anyone who knows renaults in Melbourne? Id rather not go to any mechanic... Have a look at FuRyZ's ride thread. He has the full experience of an engine failure due to overheating, and a full rebuild with lots of tasty parts, mods and high HP as a result. A good starting point to play catch up on his experience I suggest. Look forward to reading what you end up doing and how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hengeli Posted 30, August 2016 Report Share Posted 30, August 2016 Meg is a fantastic buy you have to appreciate how special they are and don't short change on tyres Mich Super Sports or Hankook RS3, Meganes are top of the class drive experience wise. DO it!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerryACT Posted 12, September 2016 Report Share Posted 12, September 2016 According to the service schedule, the timing belt should be changed every 4 years or 100,000kms. So if the 2011 model that you're looking at has been serviced correctly, then it should've been done last year. As mentioned above, the drivetrains between the models are the same. A tuned 250 will essentially make the same power as a tuned 275. The only differences come in the specifications. I'd recommend finding one with recaro's and xenon headlights. I'd probably also steer clear of the LE model as it doesn't come with a mechanical LSD. Don't expect huge power gains from F4RT engine. With the mods you mentioned above, you would be lucky to see 325hp. A stock 250 with some sticky tyres will still embarrass considerably more powerful cars at the track Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.