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The Where&How of RCS interior rattles (feedback please)


les

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Set your radio to adjust automatically with the speed, and turn it all the way down while stationary. Then do 100 (in an appropriate location).

 

If the sound coming from your stereo while set to 0 is louder then the rattles. then they are supposed to be there.

 

Welcome to the world of renault logic

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Jeff - I agree with Deb. Go to Waitara for your service and explain it to them there.

 

I really wouldn't trust RD. I told them I wanted the car on monday ASAP. Took them till 3:30pm to tell me "it has a hole in the exhaust". Last friday I had put it on my mate's dad's (huh?) hoist and it took me 1-2minutes to find the issue.

 

You never know, it might even disappear before your next service! Especially being a Renault...

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Jeff - I agree with Deb. Go to Waitara for your service and explain it to them there.

 

I really wouldn't trust RD. I told them I wanted the car on monday ASAP. Took them till 3:30pm to tell me "it has a hole in the exhaust". Last friday I had put it on my mate's dad's (huh?) hoist and it took me 1-2minutes to find the issue.

 

You never know, it might even disappear before your next service! Especially being a Renault...

 

Mate they owe ma a free service so I am going to take it in there for this one and talk to Waitara about the rattle maybe, I might just do it myself at Paul's place on a Saturday.

 

If I fix the buzzing will let you know how

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  • 1 month later...

My car had numerous rattles and squeaks when I got it second hand. I had them sorted in two weeks for no dollars or dealer hastle. They were:

 

1. Rattling noise from front passenger seat - cause - locking tab on seat 'slider' release mech where it locks into the seat rail - fix - crappy fix but I custom shortend stretchy strap to form a 'rubber band', hooked it under the seat rail outer passenger side and pulled it over the release handle. This applied a torsion to the mech and stopped the rattle. I'll get to this one day when I could be bothered with a more asthetic solution. Prob take the seat out and adjust the mechanism set up. Worked though and I can't see the strap when driving etc.

 

2. Rattles from the back end some where - cause - a nut, washer, spring and power screw drive bit in the spare wheel wheel well in the boot.

 

3. Squeak from passenger side front - cause - climate control panel assembly jiggling around - fix - I ran a strip of edging rubber along the mating panel that forms the 'roof' of the drink holder. This applied extra pressure to the assembly and cushioning. It looks as if it was meant to be there and cost nuthin...and got rid of the noise.

 

4. Another sqeak from same location as above - cause - loose fitting side panel on passenger side of the centre console - cut a small rectangle of black 'stubbie holder' and reach behind plastic planel and inserted between panel and superstructure.

 

All pretty simple and cost free. I think all Clios rattle and squeak in diff places. They drive me mad...mad enough to find them when driving but a second oppinion from a passenger is a must!

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  • 4 weeks later...
If driving at about 80 and I change down to 3rd I get a loud buzzing sound, much like a vibrator :oops:

Cums from the passenger side....

 

A cable vibrating? Can't be to many of them to check... theres one in the seat isn't there?

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hey folks, about the buzzing rear speakers, I had this when I first got my car, the guys at Parra fixed it at first service. Its just the screws holding the speakers in place were loose.

 

The clear plastic panel over the instruments has started buzzing recently, anyone elses do this? Fix?

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So this time armed with some soft rubber edging, rubber strip of two thicknesses I sat inside the car tapping every panel methodically around the car as there are TWO main sources of rattles etc.

 

1. Panel joins - fix is to cut a small section of the appropriate thickness rubber and push into the join with a small flat head screw driver...carefully. This eliminates any squeak / rattle. By doing all sus joins that nails em dead.

 

2. The panels are held on to the body by these little male / female press stud fixings. Most are good but some when joined are not tensioned by the resultant panel location. These little guys will then rattle. Most panels have 5-10 of the suckers. I just removed the worst panels and took off the offending press studs and re fitted the panel. Sorted. This is easiest however you can slip in a rubber washer as well to sort out the tension on join.

 

I also found that some panels were not fully locked in with the press studs so I went around and pushed solidly on all panels and some 'clicked' back in.

 

I also lifted the panel with the dash lights rheostat (level control) out and found that the cable looms and connectors are there for what would be functions on other models. These have a posi to lock em into the facia but had come adrift and were rattling a bit (I thought this was my clear instrument panel plastic being noisey) against various items inside so I taped the spare looms together and cable tied them out of the way.

 

I also slipped some thicker rubber strip between the dash assembly and the front window pillar bases just to tension the whole thing up to be sure to be sure..

 

Lastly I lay on my back head under the dash and taped and push looms and relay / circuit board cases and mounts about and again using the rubber bits, wedge and tensioned various items up a little.

 

Basically all done now. The car is remarkably quiet now bar a small rattle inside the drivers door which I might go sus now. Took a few hrs and 4 beers one night. Still get the odd noise on the bigger bumps but they are rare now, rather than the norm.

 

I think this is the price we pay for cars designed to go together with the minimum of screwing or bolting actions (massive cost saving in production time and wages) along with a 'Re-cycle' mindset when the car dieds of old age which can be a very, very long time for a Renault if you look after it. I notice a lot of build quality bagging goes on for French cars but in reality they are no diff to other cars. Rest assured, Renault make very strong engines and manual gear boxes...or did...I guess we will find out :) Everything is done to a budget in the end.

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hey Mase,

Is the door trim held in by the same push on clips as the other panels? I have an annoying rattle in the drivers door too but I have not yet tried to pull the panel off for fear of snapping hidden clips (I have stuffed some panels on previous cars)

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I have that same annoying rattle in the drivers door, dont know wat its from but i thought it only came after i put new speakers in or due to the annoying speed humps at my uni which musta jiggled somthin out. Please let me know if any1 finds out coz it drives me crazy.

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  • 5 weeks later...
I have that same annoying rattle in the drivers door, dont know wat its from but i thought it only came after i put new speakers in or due to the annoying speed humps at my uni which musta jiggled somthin out. Please let me know if any1 finds out coz it drives me crazy.

 

Well over time I have noticed that there were numerous loud noises, squeaks, rattles coming from the boot area and drivers window/door area, especially when going over speed bumps or entering and exiting driveways.....

 

Could not believe such a big sound problem, was so simple to fix....

 

Firstly apply some Silicon Spray over the boot rubber trim (tailgate seal)... The rubber trim is suppose to be moist and plays a part with body flex, and if not maintained the metal from the boot door and the body will eventually hit and rub together, make frightening noises.....(The rubber trim looses moisture from rain and washing the car regularly)….Further the Silicon Spray can be applied to the door rubber trims as well and will get rid of the window noises as some of us have complained about….Worked for me….

 

Secondly DIY and tighten all the bolts that are visible to the eye in the boot, which include the sway bar/s..... Could not believe that the bolts we so loose….

 

And your done….

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also had annoying rattles in my passenger door. door trim has come off at least half a dozen times over the last few months and just couldn't find the bugger.

 

so more investigation and finally found it this week (with the help of someone driving while i examined), turned out to be the door latch mechanism being very dry, have now sprayed with dry lube (so people don't get big grease marks on their clothes as they jump in/out) and no more noises, hooray!

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The only rattles I get are from the windows!!!

 

WTF :shock:

 

I roll down the passenger window half way, take my finger off the button and hey presto - the electric mechanism goes crazy for 2 seconds (sounds like I'm doing a rapidfire press of the window down button) and the driver's side window rattles if half way down, but not when fully up or fully down......

 

 

electric windows, gotta be the worst spot to get rattles...

 

Any ideas guys? 8)

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  • 2 weeks later...

OK!

I have fixed my door rattles and have a DIY guide for the fix…

 

1. Remove outer rubber window seal along bottom of the window frame

outerdoorrubberoi2.jpg

 

2. Remove rear window trim, held on by 3 ‘snaps’

innerwindowtrimclipspn4.jpg

 

3. undo all screws holding door trim on :

four at the bottom,

one for the inside door handle

doorhandleps2.jpg

one for the window and mirror control panel (need to remove plug first)

doorcontroltrimplugwn2.jpg

,four that hold in the speaker (remove grille first)

speakersnw4.jpg

 

4. Pop out door panel from the bottom (three snaps hold it in) and lift off the window edge trim at the top.

innerwindowchannelox1.jpg

 

5. Unplug everything

doorhandlecablesd7.jpg

doorcontrolsoutop7.jpg

wingmirrorpluglh1.jpg

windoswitchpluguj6.jpg

and remove trim to reveal the inner workings. also there is a thin bead of some black sticky goop running around the trim panel that needs to be carefully separated too.

 

6. Lightly pound the door with your palm or side of fist and listen for rattles.

dooruf1.jpg

 

I found 2 rattles - at the honeycomb thingy and the clip for the winder motor cable.

I stuck a small piece of adhesive backed weather strip foam behind the honeycomb

foamya4.jpg

rattlepointno9.jpg

and had to tape secure the clip as the retaining arms were fatigued and kept popping out.

motorcableclipvs2.jpg

 

7. Reassemble in reverse order. The snaps are stubborn so push/bang hard to get them to snap back in.

 

Time – 30-40 mins

Difficulty – 2 dirty thumbs (easy)

 

Mase told me that his rattle was from the vertical brace running up the inside of the outer skin of the door and he just bent it with a long screwdriver from the top without having to take off the trim...easy for some. :roll:

hope it helps :)

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OK!

I have fixed my door rattles and have a DIY guide for the fix…

 

Time – 30-40 mins

Difficulty – 2 dirty thumbs (easy)

 

Mase told me that his rattle was from the vertical brace running up the inside of the outer skin of the door and he just bent it with a long screwdriver from the top without having to take off the trim...easy for some. :roll:

hope it helps :)

Excellent post maxtwee :mrgreen: Thanks

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  • 3 years later...

Thought I would resurrect an oldie, but definitely a goodie, because it helped rid my driver's door of an annoying rattle. It also points out how f'n fantastic this forum is!

 

Using Maxtwee's original photo (look up a few posts), I've added the 2 points which I fixed (in blue). Could've been either of them, but I sorted both and now the rattle has gone :D

 

dooruf2.jpg

 

Also went around to EvilB's yesterday, to grab a few bits (and met new Canberran Marek at the same time, welcome Marek). EvilB was kind enough to fix another annoying problem with my car. The bottom of the wiper mechanism was scratching the windscreen. The fix was simply putting a couple of washers where the wiper assembly bolts to the body, lifting the wipers enough to clear the windscreen. Thanks Bryan!

 

Woohoo 2 annoying problems gone in the one weekend!

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