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Clutch issues 😪


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Hey guys, first time poster in need of some help pretty bad. 

I'll keep it as short as I can. 

I own a 250 megane rs 2010. 

I got the car around June 2020, falling for it pretty quickly after test driving. So after about 4 months of owning the car the clutch started to get I guess "inconsistent" occasionally firmer than other times, different bite point after spirited driving etc, I was aware they had self adjusting clutch so I assumed it was slowly dying as the car was around 122 xxx at this point and my mechanic agreed. So we booked it in got parts together and it went in January this year. We didn't use Renault parts as thought it was a decent time to upgrade and went SMF and upgraded sprung centre, It was hell issues after issues got the car back 6 weeks later. 

I then spent the next 3 weeks or so running it in slowly (1500km or so) as I am rather pedantic and didn't want it in there again. So I had the car back come march ran it in and it all seemed well for maybe the next 4000km or so now the last 2 months it feels exactly as the old one did, inconsistent, soft then hard, high and low, to he honest starting to get worse than the old one was. 

The original was inconsistent and too soft originally, but never stunk and never slipped. The new one is the same but on a hill start is worse, will stink but also doesn't seem to slip.

I'm at a bit of a loss and as is my mechanic trying to think of other possibilities before ripping it all out again as I can't particularly afford it again. I have my next batch of parts to go on (short shifter, decat, de res, intake) but am pretty apprehensive to go forward with mods when this clutch is still giving me major grief. 

So if anyone has similar experience or has any idea as to what it could be if you could please give me a yell it would be much appreciated as this is starting to look very expensive 😪

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Hmm, leaky clutch slave? Assume the mech bled the system when the clutch was changed, but perhaps air is being introduced into the system and causing the issue?

Just an FYI, my 250 is pushing on for 180k's, original clutch, no issues. I know another one north of 250ks which I think still has the original clutch too, not normally an issue.

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Has the brake fluid been changed and the brake system been bled to eliminate any air in the system. 

That's where I would start.

As I understand it, the brake and clutch share and operate from the same fluid reservoir. I believe it can be difficult to bleed the system properly. 

Let us know how you go.

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1 hour ago, Matt205 said:

Hmm, leaky clutch slave? Assume the mech bled the system when the clutch was changed, but perhaps air is being introduced into the system and causing the issue?

Just an FYI, my 250 is pushing on for 180k's, original clutch, no issues. I know another one north of 250ks which I think still has the original clutch too, not normally an issue.

This really makes me sad that I spent the money straight up as it probably wasn't the clutch in the first place.

 

1 hour ago, cairnsy said:

Has the brake fluid been changed and the brake system been bled to eliminate any air in the system. 

That's where I would start.

As I understand it, the brake and clutch share and operate from the same fluid reservoir. I believe it can be difficult to bleed the system properly. 

Let us know how you go.

Thankyou both. My belief is that air in the system would make the grab point lower down the peddle? Mine is generally quite high but has been higher bite point than I'm generally used to since I've owned it, just progressively gets worse. Is the standard point relatively normal? As I believe you can't adjust these at the peddle? I also get a bit of a shutter on take-off if I hit the clutch in the wrong spot but again feel it's much more temperamental than it should be. 

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I have no idea to be honest about how air in the system would affect the bite point. The fact that you say it's inconsistent points more toward that being the likely culprit, generally vacuum bleeding should be fine. There's nothing oddball about the system.

If it's shuddering on moving off from standstill that's not great, what clutch did you put in it?

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From memory it was an xtreme kit, I could be wrong though, it's not listed with the brand on my receipt. We had nightmares with it from whole clutch kits being sent wrong to waiting on single parts for a week just to realise it was all wrong. Has been a bit of a headache owning it so far and it makes me sad as it's so bloody enjoyable and coming from the import scene it's exactly like that great when it is but saddening when it's not, I thought I was getting away from this with the megane 😅

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Hmm, honestly things like clutches it just doesn't pay to go outside the OEM option in my opinion. Price point may have been a factor in decision making process I guess, but there's no upside from what I have seen changing to a non OEM style unit and SMF, others may have a differing opinion.

Finding this forum and asking questions, opinions etc will be a good start in improving the ownership experience.

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Yeah price was definitely somewhat a variable as genuine Renault was 3600 or something along those lines with parts alone. I've got the next few parts I wanted as mentioned in the post. Will have a chat to the mechanic tomorrow about getting the system bled again and see if that helps any. 

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Had written a long winded post about the other mods you're talking about, but your car, I'll just keep my opinions to myself for a change! 😂

Edited by Matt205
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I  can chime in here with some personal experience having just had this happen to my car over Christmas when installed a clutch kit that I got from Racing Dynamics along with their light flywheel. Issues started after about 1500km or so. After bleeding it numerous times at night it just kept doing same thing with biting point becoming inconsistent on my way home from work. If you have used an aftermarket slave I guarantee that is the problem. Ktec told me they had same issues with aftermarket slaves and wont sell them. Eurocare who sell Renault parts said same thing. You MUST buy a genuine slave. Trust me. Once I put in the genuine slave it was perfect. Not what you want to hear but it is what it is.

Edited by Masterofpuppets
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Hmm this sounds yeah quite possible and I'm glad someone else has had the issue. As much as that does suck, it beats a whole new clutch. Thankyou for the input I will grab info from my mechanic as to what the exact kit was, chase it up and if non genuine will have to have a look into it.

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27 minutes ago, Masterofpuppets said:

I  can chime in here with some personal experience having just had this happen to my car over Christmas when installed a clutch kit that I got from Racing Dynamics along with their light flywheel. Issues started after about 1500km or so. After bleeding it numerous times at night it just kept doing same thing with biting point becoming inconsistent on my way home from work. If you have used an aftermarket slave I guarantee that is the problem. Ktec told me they had same issues with aftermarket slaves and wont sell them. Eurocare who sell Renault parts said same thing. You MUST buy a genuine slave. Trust me. Once I put in the genuine slave it was perfect. Not what you want to hear but it is what it is.

You mind if I chuck you a message also for a few quick questions? 

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53 minutes ago, Bradlee8 said:

Care to link it? I'll have a read 

Hahaha, I deleted it. However the short version is, with the exception of the res delete, I think all those listed are waste of money.

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Just now, Matt205 said:

Hahaha, I deleted it. However the short version is, with the exception of the res delete, I think all those listed are waste of money.

How come? 

I've already got the shifter and probably wouldn't go back on that. Res delete is obvious. 

Then I have 400£ ktec credit which is where I figured intake and downpipe come into it, obvs tune needed ontop aswell. 

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Driven a few with the short shift mod and hated it. Plus you can literally do the mod for $5-10 if you really want it. I find it makes the shift a little vague and actually slower cause you have to be very mindful about which gear you're selecting. I think it's just one of those "was great on my supra" type dealios.

Decat will for sure need a tune, will most likely throw a fault code without a tune and cause the ECU to throw tons of fuel to compensate. Even with the tune I'm not sure there's enough in it to justify the cost over just a tune with the stock downpipe. Might make more noise though?

Intake, purely a sound mod, so for that purpose sure, but no performance gain.

Makes me sound like a boring old fart, but is actually based on making many mistakes and wasting money over the years.

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41 minutes ago, Bradlee8 said:

Hmm this sounds yeah quite possible and I'm glad someone else has had the issue. As much as that does suck, it beats a whole new clutch. Thankyou for the input I will grab info from my mechanic as to what the exact kit was, chase it up and if non genuine will have to have a look into it.

The aftermarket one is noticeably cheaper in quality too. When it was pulled out the boot had actually come off it. 

Send me a msg if you like

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30 minutes ago, Masterofpuppets said:

The aftermarket one is noticeably cheaper in quality too. When it was pulled out the boot had actually come off it. 

Send me a msg if you like

I'll give you a message in the morning if all good mate, appreciate it.

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