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Hey hey rs fam, new here from Syd!


elzd

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If it's not already got one - an adjustable rear anti roll bar from Superpro, will make the front turn in better and also get you some more lift off oversteer if you run it on the tighter setting.

Can be fitted by any home mechanic in < 30 minutes.

https://superpro.com.au/find/superpro-suspension-parts-and-poly-bushings-for-renault-megane-series-iii-2008-on-/cid-999500258

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If it's not already got one - an adjustable rear anti roll bar from Superpro, will make the front turn in better and also get you some more lift off oversteer if you run it on the tighter setting.
Can be fitted by any home mechanic in https://superpro.com.au/find/superpro-suspension-parts-and-poly-bushings-for-renault-megane-series-iii-2008-on-/cid-999500258
Cheers I'll def have a look into it.

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Resonator delete is a must!


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Can back that up, done it last week sounds perfect!

Superchip bluefin comes in next week also .

Have to be careful car still under warranty lol.

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Nice looking car mate!

+1 on the resonator! Everyone seems to have differing results. Mine cracks and pops like no tomorrow. Also consider a new K&N panel filter – helps with a bit of induction noise and quicker pedal response. Be sure to remove the piece of foam that is in the Air box as well!! 

I upgraded the sound system with a new head unit and an active sub! Sounds perfect now. Ne sure to read the ICE thread as there are a few parts you need to get this done! good luck. 

Edited by megane177
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Nice looking car mate!
+1 on the resonator! Everyone seems to have differing results. Mine cracks and pops like no tomorrow. Also consider a new K&N panel filter – helps with a bit of induction noise and quicker pedal response. Be sure to remove the piece of foam that is in the Air box as well!! 
I upgraded the sound system with a new head unit and an active sub! Sounds perfect now. Ne sure to read the ICE thread as there are a few parts you need to get this done! good luck. 
I've got a performance air filter, midpipe delete and a stage 1 flash is on the way !

May need to change the flywheel soon so I'll stick with that. Cheers on the ICE

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Pretty much what everybody already said, resonator delete, air filter (remove soundproofing from box) I would add lowering springs and if you willing stage1 tune, final result should be bloody awesome 👍

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On 07/05/2018 at 3:48 PM, JDB said:

If it's not already got one - an adjustable rear anti roll bar from Superpro, will make the front turn in better and also get you some more lift off oversteer if you run it on the tighter setting.

Can be fitted by any home mechanic in < 30 minutes.

https://superpro.com.au/find/superpro-suspension-parts-and-poly-bushings-for-renault-megane-series-iii-2008-on-/cid-999500258

Interesting suggestion. Don't want to hijack this thread but would it be worthwhile upgrading the front one too? or just chuck this rear one on and call it a day?

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Rear one is 30 minutes to fit with axle stands, front bar requires a hoist and drop the sub frame - 2-3 hours work.

I have both front and rear fitted to my car and coil overs and rear camber shims, corners very well.

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2 hours ago, JDB said:

Rear one is 30 minutes to fit with axle stands, front bar requires a hoist and drop the sub frame - 2-3 hours work.

I have both front and rear fitted to my car and coil overs and rear camber shims, corners very well.

How's the ride compared to standard? 

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firmer, fine on the freeway - uncomfortable on back roads.

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Did you do that all together or one change at a time? Interesting to know the individual - and cumulative - effect of the mods. 

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If it's not already got one - an adjustable rear anti roll bar from Superpro, will make the front turn in better and also get you some more lift off oversteer if you run it on the tighter setting.
Can be fitted by any home mechanic in https://superpro.com.au/find/superpro-suspension-parts-and-poly-bushings-for-renault-megane-series-iii-2008-on-/cid-999500258

You reckon it needs more oversteer [emoji15]... my 275 already tips in very nicely under brakes, although I will say since going to AR1’s, it’s not as eager as the rear grip is up a lot!


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I did rear bar first - 5 years ago, no loss in comfort

I then did H&R lowered springs 3 months after that - it handled better but lost of comfort on anything less than good roads

Then - 3 years later I did the front bar - big job dropping the sub frame

Then - 6 months after that did the Coilovers, adjustable damping allows for some variation in ride quality

If you are going to start making suspension changes - my advice would be get a ride / drive in a car that already has the mods you are looking at first, friendly bunch on this forum, must be someone in your area who has the mods done. If in Perth, welcome to drive my car.

 

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I did rear bar first - 5 years ago, no loss in comfort
I then did H&R lowered springs 3 months after that - it handled better but lost of comfort on anything less than good roads
Then - 3 years later I did the front bar - big job dropping the sub frame
Then - 6 months after that did the Coilovers, adjustable damping allows for some variation in ride quality
If you are going to start making suspension changes - my advice would be get a ride / drive in a car that already has the mods you are looking at first, friendly bunch on this forum, must be someone in your area who has the mods done. If in Perth, welcome to drive my car.
 

Decent advice mate. I’ve been tracking mine on the stock suspension for the last year and half, going well so far. No luck with a rear sway bar fitted Megane in QLD.

What coilovers did you go with?

I’m looking at the AST top mounts for OEM suspension atm, seem to be good for -2 Camber.


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I went with the BC Racing coilovers as I am on a fairly tight budget, if I was a wealthy bloke I would probably go with the Nitron R-1's but they are about $4,500 here in Australia.

I have a thread on this forum regarding the BC's, probably around AUS$1,400 delivered , not sure what you would be paying for the AST top mounts, could be half the cost of the BC's ?

Lowered springs will help with track performance, but you will lose comfort - they are cheap way of setting  a faster lap time though.

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I went with the BC Racing coilovers as I am on a fairly tight budget, if I was a wealthy bloke I would probably go with the Nitron R-1's but they are about $4,500 here in Australia.
I have a thread on this forum regarding the BC's, probably around AUS$1,400 delivered , not sure what you would be paying for the AST top mounts, could be half the cost of the BC's ?
Lowered springs will help with track performance, but you will lose comfort - they are cheap way of setting  a faster lap time though.

Yeah I’m in Australia also mate. I was looking at the BC’s. Did you go 8kg/7kg? That would be my preference.

I’ve emailed a few AST dealers, looking like $600 delivered for the top mounts.

I’ll check your thread out. I think the stock springs pretty good in the 275 Cup compared to other cars I’ve owned or driven like STI and an Evo.


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I have 7 kg fronts and 2 sets of rears 4 kg currently in the car and I have a 5 kg set of rears which I will fit once I get a lap around Barbagallo, hopefully 26 May if my car is running, currently waiting on a an AC pulley from overseas as none in Australia.

I am hoping to be able to test each of the rear sets of springs and see which is best for lap times and also on the road. There are two events in July, so if I am lucky enough to get similar weather conditions and no other problems on the track, by end of July I should have some figures.

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On 5/7/2018 at 10:23 PM, megane177 said:

Nice looking car mate!

+1 on the resonator! Everyone seems to have differing results. Mine cracks and pops like no tomorrow. Also consider a new K&N panel filter – helps with a bit of induction noise and quicker pedal response. Be sure to remove the piece of foam that is in the Air box as well!! 

I upgraded the sound system with a new head unit and an active sub! Sounds perfect now. Ne sure to read the ICE thread as there are a few parts you need to get this done! good luck. 

Any photos of your install? and did you keep the colum controls or just disconnect it?

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On 18/05/2018 at 12:44 PM, HappyGorilla said:

Any photos of your install? and did you keep the colum controls or just disconnect it?

Will take a nice pic tomorrow. Yes – definitely kept the steering controls!

Basically I did the following (all bought of ebay cause its generally cheaper)

  1. Got the SONY MEX-M100BT (it has 100w x 4, I think it does 25 RMS each channel!)
  2. Got a new facia like this –  https://www.ebay.com.au/i/122795663348?chn=ps
  3. Get an Antenna adapter like this
  4. You then need a Steering Wheel control harness. My meg has the screen (with maps – which you lose as a part of the install, but not the reverse camera). I got the CTSRN008.2. There are others depending on which audio setup you have. I just took my head unit out to see which one I needed. Others are shown here https://aerpro.com/vehicles/renault/renault-megane-2009-2016. There is a harness that apparently retains maps but it costs 200 pounds! Not worth those Tom Tom maps IMO when WAZE is a million times better. 
  5. You will need a patch lead based on which head unit you get. This goes from the steering control on the back of the HU to the SW control harness. My control harness came with one. https://www.autobarn.com.au/aerpro-patch-lead-me11550
  6. You then you need to convert your head unit plug to ISO. So I got the SONY to ISO 16 pin – http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/HARNESS-ISO-TO-SONY-APP8SP4/423692
  7. The Sony end on this harness plug was different to the one actually coming from the head unit, so I just removed the connectors and joined each wire together with heat shrink.
  8. Now the ISO plugs into the Steering wheel adapter which then fits the existing plugs in the renault. 
  9. There are lot of wires so I had to do some wire gymnastics to get it all back in there. Then viola it sounds a million times better!
  10. On my particular head unit I had to play with a setting to set the controls correctly for the steering wheel controls, but it all worked great!
  11. Next was the Active Sub. I found it impossible to get through the firewall to get to the battery. I also did not want to go to an installer or drill a hole! So for the power cable I just bought a dual fuse tap like THIS and powered the sub through the cigarette lighter fuse. I was inspired by this when I found a FOCAL instal guide that wires their active subs to the back of the cigarette lighter power cable. I affectively did the same thing without cutting into more wires. Here is the guide –https://www.focal-inside.com/ds/wp-content/uploads/tutorials/megane3_en.pdf
  12. Then I wired the sub to the head unit via RCA and the remote cable and then finished! Now my sound is amazing!

Hope this helps.

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