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Posted

Hi all, on Monday I pick up a silver Megane 225 Cup, 102,000k, full service history.

Can't wait!

  • Like 1
Posted

Very nice mate! Looks like it's begging for a good fun twisty drive!

Posted

Welcome!

 

Looks like a non-Cup. No 225s had Recaros either.

Posted

Hmm, probably not a cup. Oh well lol


I've found photo's of Cups with grey calipers, red calipers, solid rotors, drilled rotors, colour coded mirrors. 

Posted

Welcome!

 

Agree with the others - doesn't look like a Cup. Lack of anthracite wheels and wing mirrors is the main giveaway.

 

To be sure, you can also check:

- cross-drilled rotors

- switch off traction control and see if it comes back on above 50kph

- Eibach springs

 

Anyway, it's a great steer and hope you enjoy it! (and it's good to you) :D

Posted

Unfortunately I may yet not buy. I've put a deposit on and am flying down from rocky to brizzy. I'm a bit worried about whether the cambelt has been done. We have a Renault dealer here, how much do they usually charge?

Posted

Having said that. Does anyone know where to find a cambelt change guide? I've done csmbelts on a couple cars (ford probe, elantra) so with the correct tools (suggestions?) I'm confident I can do it.

Posted (edited)

You need special tools to lock the cams before releasing the cam covers or it all goes pear shaped. Unless you were doing lots of them it's probably not worth trying as is very easy to stuff up with bad outcomes.

 

There is a thread on replacing cam belts in brisbane that is worth a read.

 

Good luck with it all she looks good.

 

Plus 1 on the switching traction control off to test if a cup. If it stays off it's a cup. Could easily have had mirrors and wheels colour changed in its life.

Edited by No152
Posted

Is the seller open about what it is or what has been done to it? If it was a phase 1 and has had phase 2 upgrade to front and rear it could be an indication of someone having loved it and spending a lot on upgrades. But could also mean major damage repaired using phase 2 parts.

 

Maybe a full vehicle search would be a few dollars well spent?

Posted

Hey. Done a ppsr or whatever check. No accidents etc

Just that it's been well serviced. Has pirelli tyres etc

Posted (edited)

Ask for a photo of the instrument panel- Phase 2= Speedo on the right, tacho on the left. Phase 1 is the other way around.

 

So, can someone more learned than me clarify the most significant difference between cup/ non cup is the springs? Drop cup springs into a non-cup and you have pretty much the "Cup Chassis"?- apart from drilled rotors (and red painted front callipers), 18" rims and some colour coded mirrors.

 

Also, cam belt job in QLD- usually around the $1000 mark or there about. Once done= peace of mind.

Edited by handyman0708
Posted

Front grill- Ph1 flat top line across the intake- Ph 2 slopes down towards the middle, tail lights are different. I have heard, but do not know from personal experience, the Ph 2 had a significantly revised steering rack that improved driver feel of the car. If looking for one of these, see if you can get the front wheels off the ground with a jack- the rack ends, or steering rack its self can develop wear/ play even at fairly low km. Mine does not yet have 80,000km and it has already had both rack ends replaced.

Posted (edited)

Ask for a photo of the instrument panel- Phase 2= Speedo on the right, tacho on the left. Phase 1 is the other way around.

 

From  the photobucket link posted earlier:

 

cd4619613461869872393_zpsnlvq6sxh.jpg

Edited by vaughan
Posted

Thanks Vaughan, was about to say that. So comparing it to a 2004 the tail lights, grill, cluster, and maybe console? are different


cool, buying it!

Posted (edited)

I have no knowledge of the Meganes, sorry. I just found the pic and thought I'd post it.

 

just found this:

 

10090_225-difference_megane_2_phase_1_ph

 

Note that the pic of the phase 1 has been flipped (the Renault badge is back-to-front and fuel filler cover is missing) so Badsanta's comment is right, the Phase 2 has RS badge in the right, Phase 1 on the left.

Edited by vaughan
Posted

Looks like she's a well maintained phase 2. Only question is if a cup or not.

 

Do you want me to go and look at it for you and try the stability off etc...?

Posted

Hey No152, I'm flying down to Brizzy on Monday, flight already booked but thanks for the offer :)

Not too fussed if it's not a cup so long as it's a PH2, it's strange that the VIN indicates PH1 but it's clearly not a PH1 unless someone went to the trouble of new bumper, rims, instrument cluster, tail lights etc.

Maybe it is a very early PH2 cup.

Posted

Fairly unlikely to do the instrument cluster as well. I have read on this forum and the UK forum the wiring harness to the cluster was changed Ph1 to Ph2 so it is not a direct swap. Pretty unlikely someone would go to that amount of trouble.

Posted

I think redbook may have the vins wrong, ppsr (carfacts) says it's a 2006 build and complied PHII

I'm not sure which one to go by lol..

Posted

I'd go by the PPSR report.  Chances of that being an altered Phase 1 is very slim.  I agree with Handyman, nobody would logically go to that much trouble to change a Phase 1 to a Phase 2.

 

Renault do some strange things at model changeover time, so it could well be as you say an early Phase 2 Cup.  Hope so!!

 

Sounds like you might have a beauty there, and as others have said, if it's not a Cup, replacement of the standard springs with coil overs or the like will soon sort that out for you.

 

Looking forward to reading the update once you take delivery and get her back home.  :popcorn:

  • Like 1
Posted

I'd go by the PPSR report.  Chances of that being an altered Phase 1 is very slim.  I agree with Handyman, nobody would logically go to that much trouble to change a Phase 1 to a Phase 2.

 

Renault do some strange things at model changeover time, so it could well be as you say an early Phase 2 Cup.  Hope so!!

 

Sounds like you might have a beauty there, and as others have said, if it's not a Cup, replacement of the standard springs with coil overs or the like will soon sort that out for you.

 

Looking forward to reading the update once you take delivery and get her back home.  :popcorn:

7 hour trip home, so should have a lot to report. How expensive are replacement keys as it only has one?

Posted

So, can someone more learned than me clarify the most significant difference between cup/ non cup is the springs? Drop cup springs into a non-cup and you have pretty much the "Cup Chassis"?- apart from drilled rotors (and red painted front callipers), 18" rims and some colour coded mirrors.

IIRC the shock absorber rates are slightly stiffer in Cup to suit the springs - but I may be way off.

 

I also think that this car may be a Ph2 - apart from all the points above, I'm fairly certain the silver was a different shade on Ph1? You can see it from Vaughan's photo above, the blue-ish tinge (like iceberg on a Clio 2). Ph2 silver is more a gunmetal / champagne type combo.

Posted

How expensive are replacement keys as it only has one?

 

There is a thread on this topic somewhere but "very" is the short answer... 

 

Try this one

 

http://www.ozrenaultsport.com/index.php?/topic/24813-i-appear-to-have-lost-my-only-key/?hl=%2Bkey+%2Bcard#entry513529

Posted

Cool. $350 isn't too bad. I had an Alfa and a new key (no fob) was about $500 with a key and fob being over $700

Posted

Posted on wrong thread earlier. Well..... things are not good. 200k out of brizzy I lost power on a hill. I'm now an hour from rocky. The speed has dropped until stalling twice

I've had bucking and backfiring on hills and the same accelerating. Not happy.

Posted

Really hope you can get it home. Lets hope for plugs, injectors or coils. Perhaps, but less likely, fuel filter.

Posted

Could it be a coil? The inspection they did listed a faulty coil pack. None look new.

How difficult/expensive are injectors to replace? It was fine on the test drive. I've stopped a few times for 10 minutes with the engine off and it goes ok for a minute or two.

How difficult/expensive are injectors to replace? It was fine on the test drive. I've stopped a few times for 10 minutes with the engine off and it goes ok for a minute or two.

How difficult/expensive are injectors to replace? It was fine on the test drive. I've stopped a few times for 10 minutes with the engine off and it goes ok for a minute or two.

Posted

More likely to be a coil or a faulty or badly seated sensor. One bad coil has a huge effect on engine performance and could result in the symptoms you're experiencing. If your inspection found a faulty coil then that's where I'd be looking first.

Posted (edited)

Injectors are not hard to do so long as you are gentle with the plastic fuel rail. Take your time and be gentle and quite easy. Everything is right at the front of the engine. These appear to be fairly cheap- others might have a better supplier 

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271785808533?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

Coils out of Melbourne.

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/252037042406?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

I have not used either of these yet.

 

Not much good to you out on the road at night though. Best of luck with it.

Edited by handyman0708
Posted

I'm home. Checked coils (plugs disintegrated on removal) they all have a resistence of 1.2 the plugs though are stuffed

Plugs being coil pack connectors

Posted

Sounds like it might be a relatively easy (if annoying) fix. Glad you got home ok. Hopefully it will be like clockwork now on after that is sorted

Posted

Yeah but I will be requesting the dealer covers the cost. Regardless of stat warranty it's clearly covered under consumer guarantee. I'm also have the brakes looked at because on firm application it was difficult to stop the car veering towards oncoming traffic.

Posted

Hopefully they will. Have you been in touch with them?

Posted

Briefly via email (on purpose)

They didn't offer any type of remedy though.

 

I've got it booked in at my local Renault on Wednesday to diagnose the issue.

It seems the coil pack plugs are not easy to find.

Posted

Good luck sorting it. Hope all works out ok with the car and getting compensated for that cost.

Posted

Boost solenoid. Total bill minus the $110 the dealer covered is $450. That's with me saying I'll fit solenoid.

Posted

Is it totally sorted? If so, pretty good result!

Posted

Not sorted. Had to order solenoid.

But it's driven fine today

Now I just hope the dealer has actually ordered the waterpump and timing belt kit. Instead of just ordering it yesterday the girl decided they need to look at it first!?

Posted

The dealer I took it to are not the best. Monday I called to book in for cambelt kit and waterpump. Was told I'd have to pay for parts upfront. Spent lunchtime Tuesday trying to get someone to order parts but the reference number given couldn't be found. Went in Tuesday and said I want to have cambelt etc etc. They said they'd order parts and booked in for Friday. I tried to confirm cambelt etc on Friday and found they hadn't ordered parts because they wanted to see what it needed??? Repeated again cambelt kit, waterpump and now it will be mid next week

I seem to think of a customer says waterpump, cambelt kit you order it. They were wanting to do oil etc and then see what parts they need when I'd told them. I said today don't touch the oil, I don't like paying $250 for a job I can do for $70. I'll be doing the cambelt myself next time.

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