Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

119 Excellent

About Aaron_GT220

  • Rank
  • Birthday 15/04/1975


  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. It should have had its first timing belt back in 2017 (4 year interval if going by the book) So if it had the belt done then you’ve got another couple of years before it’s due next. So yes it would have been “optional” at the 100000km service because it would be 2 years early and obviously not due on distance (assuming done in 2017).
  2. A friend has all his stuff with them and they’ve been very good in the event of claims - they pretty much covered a complete rebuild of the front half of his car without and issue and have backed up fixing minor mechanical niggles that arose from it after the repairs. I’ve had far less success in having Shannon’s even warranty repairs their recommended repairer didn’t fix!
  3. +1 on the above. Very very capable long distance car, the extra wheelbase (wagon as opposed to gt220 hatch) makes it a bit more settled. Very easy to spend 10+ hours a day in cross-country if you have a need. Absolutely eats our country highways and byways up with ease.
  4. Note some items are 60k, some are 4 years and some are “4 years OR 60k” or “4 years OR 100k” so depending on how the car has been used the actual requirements for the service can be a bit all over the place. The service guide has a pretty good matrix - but it can be a bit of a mental exercise tracking it in your head.
  5. Be aware that a few people have had the services/book stamped for the timing belt interval but didn't do the actual belt. For example mine will get the belt at about 20-25000km at 4 years. Belt itself won't have any issues at that age. A lot of low-km RS will have the same thing and to trim the cost. Not doing the belt for another year means a year to sell the car. So check receipts or call the workshop and get the records checked.
  6. Yup iron fallout is a cause of this. IronX on paint, Bowdens Wheely clean does same but may not be as "paint safe" If it was parked near railways it's almost 100% iron fallout. It won't hurt to try one of these in either case.
  7. It's buried in a French forum, in French Will post from home rather than try and get the correct link from the phone.
  8. A dude in France (actually two now) have built their own - the GT220 is exactly as described by others and I can assure you there's no magic GT265 Perfohub and LSD wagon in AU. You can have one, I can send you exact parts lists, etc but expect about $10-15000 to change hands to have it done. That's LSD Perfohub and tuning. If you can't change to Recaros as the side airbag systems are not approved - well you can change the seats and plug them in, and they'll work but it's not in any way legal as the bags aren't complied in the wagon shell (semantic argument I know). Also you have to run Steevs or similar offset wheels at front to get back under the guards. You have to get the electric rear calipers to work on the different rear rotor/hubs which the other converts in France hadn't needed - some euro GT220s are conventional handbrake our use the powered park brake. You can adapt the rear brakes from a Scenic on but I'm unsure you're going to get the track increase needed, so then you need to run spacers (illegal) or have the RS265 offset compatible front wheels with the regular GT220 offset rears. It would be "easier" to have rear hubs custom made to get around this, at least they can be engineered. All in all not as easy as it sounds unless you have $$$ I'll have full diagrams and parts lists on my blog shortly, currently interpreted around 500 components in the GT220 stock front and starting the same for the RS265. Then we cross reference what's common (mostly fasteners) and finally determine if we can (safely and legally) adapt stuff like the lower arms to allow the stabiliser rod to bolt on, rather than use a RS265 arm which has a threaded mount. To be honest the swaps I've seen were subframe swaps and super easy, but in France a front and rear RS265 subframe set with brakes and suspension and under 5000km is about EU2000... and "common". We have to think harder (right down to what other Cup chassis bits can be used from Meg2 or Clio3 if any at all. And after all that what we really need is an LSD That's going to be < $5k well spent. I need a money tree...
  9. I think the setup on the GT220 comes into it's own out of the city, on the rural roads it's really good and just doesn't bottom out and crash about. For those considering lowering remember the GT220 is on the "Sports" setup which is shared with the GTLine. They're about 15mm lower than the "regular" Pommy base models so factor that in. I'll be putting online the full diagrams, parts lists and explanations of doing a Perfohub swap in the coming weeks. Personally I'd rather go for a LSD, (via a gearbox swap from a RS265 wreck). Will include info and parts details on the LSD stuff too.
  10. No, RS stuff won't fit unless you go Perfohub. BUT a GT220 is just a Megane GTLine with a real motor gearbox and brakes. The UK market is full of options to lower the MK3 wagons. I considered lowering briefly but asides from looks there's no real reason to do it, in fact it will most likely upset the characteristic I love most about the car. Unfortunately for the Mk3 Renault switched strut foot design which means that the Petfohub struts are unique in design compared to the "regular" cars
  11. Andy that's about it apparently, there's "fewer" features in the Gt220 version compared to RS265
  12. Andy if you have a "Premium" then no RS Monitor.
  13. Stacks of options from UK etc from springs to coilovers. 15-50mm drops
  14. Aaron_GT220


    10000km on mine and no real issues that aren't endemic Renaultsport issues. The cosmetic things have been resolved promptly and effectively by my dealer. Did have clutched checked at the service because it has sometimes felt like it wasn't fully disengaging, but no faults found. I do think it may be me being out of sync with auto start though, ie I'm already starting to release the clutch as is only just getting to idle. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
  • Create New...