vaughan

The trick with eGo is to specify pickup or delivery to or from a depot, with depot-to-depot being cheapest.

Very nice! Get the stock airbag back on with a foam panel filter in it, it's the best performing. 😀 Any plans to put the stock 172 wheels back on?

The OP's Clio has the clear side indicators and probably has no door lock on the drivers side. It's a really late build 172. The 172 "conversion" to 1.2s is a big thing in the UK because insurance is really expensive for younger drivers. Also Clios over there are really common and cheap.

Engine running: not just ignition in the second position, engine running. French!

The wheels are NOT correct. 🤮

IMHO pay a bit more (closer to $5,000) and get one with a good service history that's been well maintained -- brakes and pads, fluids (brake, coolant, power steering), both belts including tensioners, water pump etc, engine mounts, and tyres well suited to the Clio like PS3 or RE003s. Their famous handling and character is very much dependent on tyres. Otherwise whatever you buy you'll need to spend another $3,000 doing the engine mounts, belts, tyres, brakes and fluids to get it up to scratch.

The Trophy has fancy Sachs front struts, everything else is standard Cup similar to what we got in Aus -- which has larger front bearings than standard with 60 mm strut mounting centres. The Sachs struts are NLA from Renault. :(

If you mean 182 Cup wheels, there are exactly the same as normal 182 wheels only a different colour.

All of the above... haha Budget the best part of $1,800 for belts and get everything done at the same time: dephaser, harmonic balancer, water pump, both belts and tensioners, all idlers and pulleys, thermostat. Gear synchros do wear but the bigger problem is oil leak through the selector shaft. A small leak is common. The SERV+airbag light is common and easy to DIY fix. Otherwise check the tyres are both roadworthy and good. Cheap tyres ruin the handling.

My P2 did this with both keys so I assumed it was a problem with something other than the keys. It turned out both keys were bad. I was stranded for almost 40 minutes in a servo after filling with fuel one day. Car started only after I started squeezing the remote very firmly, enough to make the pcb flex. I drove straight home and re-flowed the solder on all the components on the pcb and it fixed both keys. Use a fine-tipped electronics soldering iron, get it hot, and press on each joint until you see the metal melt then remove the iron and let it cool carefully being careful not to move anything (otherwise the joint goes bad). Do one joint at a time so the tiny devices don't fall off or move.

The downside to supplying parts yourself is that the workshop won’t offer a warranty for your parts, only their labour. So say the tensioner fails it’s your problem unless you can prove the workshop didn’t fit it correctly.

Don’t do it yourself unless you have experience specifically with the F4R engine and have the correct tools.

In that case, the grass at the start of the straight at Lakeside. Nice pic of @tripleturbo

Unfortunately the P1 uses a different immobiliser system to the 172 P2 and P3 (182). I'm familiar with the P2 immobiliser but don't know how relevant this is to the P1. Not many people do. I believe the P1 remotes have to come from Renault France and must be coded for the VIN over there. It's not possible to buy them over here (unlike the P2 remotes that can be flashed here by third parties.) For the172 P2 and 182: immobiliser light flashes fast = remote chip not recognised immobiliser light on constantly = remote chip has been accepted but some other problem with the system prevents the car from starting The crank sensor is a common cause for the solid light problem. So is a break in the white CANBUS wire in the loom to the engine CPU. Ive also found that a dying battery causes immobiliser problems too. Before buying new keys, re-solder all the components on the circuit board.

They are affecting the speedo, but they are correcting the error in the stock system. IME the 172 with stock wheels and tyres the speedo should be out by about 5 km/h at 60 (that is, need to sit the needle on about 65 indicated to do 60 km/h on the ground) about 10 km/h at 100. If you have cruise control fitted the error on the digital read-out is only about 2 and 4 km/h (set 82 to do 80 on the ground, set 104 to do 100 on the ground) so there is about 2 km/h to 4 km/h error in the speedo circuitry, and another 3 to 6 km/h in the analog meter. Ground speed is checked with Harry's Lap Timer on an iPhone. I've had two 172s (one with ESP) and the error has been identical in both.