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Quadrastu

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Quadrastu last won the day on 24 July 2016

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Vétéran

Vétéran (4/6)

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  1. Rear bearings are one of the easiest going.....only downside is you need a press. It's a complete sealed bearing, the stubs won't be worn at all. That's some serious wear if the tyres have been touching the arches! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Ah right yeah.....I'd be 99% sure it'll be a temp one not adblue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. How do you mean what kind?? The older one suffers the same as 90% of dpf do.....if you don't reach the parameters required to carry out a regeneration it will clog up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Your post makes no sense....and you clearly didn't read mine properly either. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Better clear it up first that this is not aimed at any of the builds listed as I've never seen them but.... Cloudy I think you'd be pretty shocked by some of the appalling and downright dangerous stuff that gets built. The laws are way too relaxed, you can buy a 20 yr old car and throw your 400bhp Rb25 skyline motor in it and your off impressing all your mates.....and to keep it cheap you insure it as the 1.2 it left the factory as......until your complete lack of ability or the crap build means you wipe someone out, and your insurance ain't worth sh*t. What I spent many many years seeing, fixing, walking away in absolute disgust was the fact that there's no inspection or certification that it is safe. Brake or suspension upgrade....what's that, can't afford that..!!! Now for every 2 good, genuine builds there are 8 absolute shockers. Wiring just twisted together with insulation tape or crimp connectors.....cooling systems with plumbers pipe, firewalls or front panels hacked, beaten and bent to allow clearance and I could go on. Now yes the laws are the complete opposite here and it's a tough one to say what should and shouldn't be allowed but believe me google and Internet forums does not make everyone a master mechanic. My apologies for the rant Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Only diesels that still work for short distance/lower k's run ad-blue (another cost...) or are older models still running egr valves but they're getting rare now. Once a model gets replaced it has to comply with the current emission laws. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Downside to the diesel is the dpf as with most current and new models. If the majority of your driving is town, stop/start or short distances any half decent salesman will advise you against. Plus the diesel always carries a premium over a petrol, unless you knock up big K's your not really saving on fuel costs or servicing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. It'll be a different gearbox, the xtronic which is a cvt and I'd assume no manual option as they didn't sell here. Also likely to be the 1.6 diesel not the 2.0 from the previous model. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Quadrastu

    New Rs Owner

    Ha ha ha did you not hear that all Falcon and Bogadores are soaring in value now they are/will no longer built....so the streets will not be littered with badly parked hoon mobiles as they'll be tucked away to increase in value. [emoji23][emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. The toothpaste or machine polish can be a short term solution and they can cloud again......you can buy a kit which has a clear sealer to spray on after cleaning them, I'm sure autobahn or supercheap do them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. I'll agree with all of the points made about the drive/feel etc...... DPF's are a pain if you don't do the driving style that allows them to regen/burn the nasty stuff off.....driving round the city or to just to the shops twice a week will have it clogged up in no time. As for servicing, make sure the correct low ash oil has/is being used....they can take 7 litres of the stuff. No timing belt but the acc belt kit does require changing which includes the pulley and a little more labour than just doing the equivalent on the 225, so it's sometimes ignored due to $$. The rest of the stuff is Megane RS, brakes etc so you'll find plenty of posts regarding brakes, tyres etc and the costs/best places to buy. If I was doing the k's id have one over the petrol version, nice and torquey and look the part too. Yes a little heavier on the front so if you like the twisty stuff you'll go through tyres and brakes a little quicker. If you've been used to the 225 you need to change your driving style, it's not a scream to the redline engine....to stay in the sweet spot and keep the momentum needs a brain re adjust as it is a diesel after all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. It was meant to be the Gendamerie edition....it's an entry level RS but you loose a few bits like keyless entry, mechanical diff, auto headlights, climate and RS monitor. You also get what they call a "everyday sport" chassis which actually makes the car sit higher and is not as hardcore as the cup/trophy models. The blue looks nice when it's polished up but as it's not a metallic/high gloss finish some started to look a little dull or aged quicker than expected. Personally I'd prefer a Cup or Trophy for the whole experience/package, I felt this version lost its edge which is what an RS is about for me.....but don't get me wrong, if it's just as a daily or for spirited/weekend driving you'll probably never push it that hard to be able to notice the difference, and for that there a bargain way in to a newer model. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. From what I'm reading you have a clutch pedal, it feels like it's selecting gears i.e the linkage is attached/position of gears at the lever correct and if you select a gear the speedo reads..... As Matt205 suggests it could be the splined section on the right hand driveshaft....depending which gearbox is fitted there's also the big circlip that holds the left hand diff cup in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Great colour the BO, hope you enjoy it. Regarding the harmonic balancer........it's not a service schedule item but I have seen them fail on older and higher mileage vehicles. They're not cheap but is it worth doing for peace of mind????? or get the mechanic to visually check it over. I always used to see how badly cracked/perished the visible section of rubber was and how much side movement there is, but you are only looking at a small section of rubber. Regarding any mechanic you take it too make sure they have access to the engine locking tools.....if they look at you blankly or say you don't need them walk away. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Quadrastu

    Towbar

    I see no problem here......[emoji1] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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