Jump to content

Tommo

Members
  • Posts

    3,215
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Everything posted by Tommo

  1. Timing belt and Aux belt age? If the coolant was low, where did it go?
  2. Lucky they aren't tracking your location. Oops she threw a rod in the carpark of SMP!
  3. Tommo

    Old But New

    Different exhaust manifold 4 - 2 - 1 as opposed to 4 - 1 as well.
  4. Tommo

    Old But New

    Oh yeah the exhaust ticks and pops as it cools off for a while. Normal! I think the front dampers were $150 or so, can't remember the rears (they were more expensive than the fronts though, somehow?) Most common "faults" for me were innocuous dash lights: AIRBAG + SERV -> (wriggle the cable under the passenger seat = gone) SERV + ABS (And no cruise control working) -> (sensor behind the brake has fallen out) Aside from that it was a rock solid great car, never missed a beat.
  5. Tommo

    Old But New

    Paint code, go here: http://colorwebtech.ixell.com/index.php?index〈=en Type in "647" and scroll down to Renault and you will find "Gris Titan" in a number of varieties. GRIS TITAN 647 is the code for the 182 in Titanium Silver. The place you get the paint will be able to help you from there which one to use. 182 Cup is tricky because of the larger, stronger hubs have 60mm bolt spacing on the strut to hub as opposed to the 54 mm on all the other Clio II sports. If you just want a road car, I Koni Yellows would be the obvious choice, but you can't get them for 60mm You can go B14's or H&R coilovers; but these are quite expensive now. I think a fresh set of top mounts, fresh set of front dampers (these are cheap from the dealer), bushes and ball joints and you'll have a sweet little road car. I can't see myself recommending lowering the car for the sake of it; Eibach pro-lines if you must. Geometry goes to whack when you dump the Clio II's (I learnt the hard way) and you're better off with the travel and suppleness on the back roads. The quiet KTEC exhaust sounds nice and subtle on the 182 as well. The 98 RON RS-Tuner map makes a big difference to the mid-range. I would say that the peak power figure is probably no different, but it pulls in 3rd gear 60km/h - 110 km/h much better. Car also starts and performs much much better when cold. Whiteline rear sway bar on the stiffest setting is not "snap oversteer" at all, it puts the car into a nice neutral balance in the dry. In the wet it can be a little bit oversteery; only proper slide I had was on a racetrack with a big lift. A very very nice mod that makes the car feel totally different and super playful. I have a set of genuine roof bars on the 172, they come with some weird pentagon shaped key from memory. Quaife LSD not worth the cost for a road car. ITB's a big hassle to get properly tuned or use the KTEC GEN90... Not cheap either. You lose cruise control and ESP as well, which is not worth it for me on a road car. KTEC make an intake that is a hose and pod filter and it isn't cheap. They suggest that it makes power on the stock box, but the change is not significant. You can create the same thing yourself, but the standard airbox and a good filter is going to perform just as well. Have to record the sound for a listen to tell if it is normal or not.
  6. Tommo

    Old But New

    Definitely yes to 98 RSTuner map. Yes to keeping the stock airbox, put a better filter in there if you like. Mods - whiteline rear sway bar, new dampers and camber bolts. I'll have more for you when I'm on the computer rather than the phone.
  7. Tommo

    Optimal Oil Temp

    Number on Clio 3 RS Monitor is calculated. No oil temperature sensor on the car; so nothing to worry about no matter what it says. Only coolant temperature sensor is present.
  8. If you want a less "track - spec" alternative to the PMS Shifter kit, do a google for "Yanoo Stiff Shift." The PMS kit is nice too! I'd leave the rims anthracite if I were you - as Moosey said, fairly sought after in that colour (and it works so well with the FRB).
  9. No, all the LSD's are aftermarket and extremely expensive to purchase and install. How do you know for sure? Jack the front of the car up and see if the wheels turn in opposite directions.
  10. Easy way to check, jack the front up and the front wheels should turn in opposite directions if you rotate one.
  11. White looks really good on the Clio 4. Or, respray in FRB...
  12. Yes I have noticed that one too!
  13. I live out that way, so if you see a black Clio 3 200 or 182 Cup it's probably me!
  14. Just find an rs engine and ecu and drop them in. All the cams, bottom end, pistons, vvt etc... Is different. Same block, different party.
  15. Yes, and under "trending" the "hottest" thread since the update has been to do with R-link in a Koleos .. :S Tapatalk has gone backwards BIG time.
  16. NEO if you can find it, goes well in the renault boxes. Standard oil is fine, but not as silky smooth.
  17. I've driven the fiesta 1.0 L ecoboost which is a fantastic motor. Surprisingly better in auto than manual (awful ratios).
  18. Really want to try one of these. I think the lack of power would be fun, for some odd reason.
  19. It's even a job you could do yourself if you can turn a spanner and have some axle stands. Other alternative is to buy just the ball joints and replace the ball joints on your current control arms. Not sure what ball joints the III uses, but you can buy ball joints for the Clio II and just bolt the new ones on to the current control arms. They're not expensive either.
  20. $75 each for the entire control arm with ball joints. http://www.rexbo.eu/metzger/track-contr ... 1&at=15317 http://www.rexbo.eu/metzger/track-contr ... 1&at=15317 Rexbo use fed-ex. Grab a bunch of nice wiper blades and cabin filters while you're there. Any mechanic will be able to replace the control arms. Best bet is an independent Renault one as the Perfohub front suspension setup might scare your average mechanic when they see it. There's independents in Bris, Syd, Melb, Adelaide off the top of my head. Here's the genuine part, with part numbers (note the price): http://renaultpartsdirect.co.uk/product ... SF%29.html Quite a lot for the genuine part which is a stamped bit of sheet, some rubber bushes and a ball joint. But, you can understand the $700, when the genuine part is $350 + whatever it costs in Au + Labour.
  21. If I were you, get the service done now. If the belt drops; you will be out of pocket thousands. Get it booked in and done.
×
×
  • Create New...